Ho Mok Pla: Thai Fish Curry Steamed in Banana Leaf Cups

Steps

1. 1Blanch and squeeze the cabbage

   Bring a pot of water to a boil and drop in the shredded cabbage for a brief blanch. Lift it out and plunge it straight into cold water. Take it up by the handful and squeeze hard with both hands until no more water runs out. Stop when the cabbage is a compact, almost dry ball.

   Squeeze until it stops dripping

   Wet cabbage shrinks as it steams and lets out its water into the cup, and the custard breaks apart around it. A hard squeeze now is what keeps each cup in one piece.

2. 2Mince the fish and fold the leaf cups

   Pat the fish dry and set aside 7 oz (200 g) to slice thinly. Chop the remaining 1 lb 2 oz (500 g) with a knife, or pulse it in a food processor, until it is a fine, even paste. Wash and wipe the banana leaves dry, cut them into 5–6 inch (13–15 cm) rounds, stack two rounds together, and fold the edges up into a cup. The cup is ready when it stands on the counter and holds its shape.

3. 3Mix the paste, egg, sugar and fish sauce

   Put the red curry paste in a large bowl. Add the beaten egg, the sugar and the fish sauce. Stir with a wooden spoon until the paste has dissolved and the mixture is smooth, glossy and reddish orange, with no lumps of paste left.

4. 4Add the coconut milk and fish, and beat until sticky

   Pour in part of the coconut milk and stir until it is absorbed. Add the minced fish and mix with your hand or a spatula. Pour in the rest of the coconut milk a little at a time, mixing after each addition. Keep going until the batter turns thick and sticky: when you lift the spatula it leaves a trail, and tilting the bowl does not make it run.

   Stickiness decides the texture

   A batter that is only stirred together falls apart and weeps water in the steamer. Beaten until it pulls and clings, it sets into a springy custard that holds the fish slices in place.

5. 5Line the cups and add the first spoon of batter

   Set the leaf cups side by side. Press a layer of squeezed cabbage into the bottom of each and lay a few Thai basil leaves on top. Drop about 1 tbsp of batter over the greens. The base is right when the cabbage is covered and the cup is still mostly empty.

6. 6Layer the fish and fill the cups

   Lay one or two slices of fish over the first spoon of batter in each cup. Spoon more batter over the fish and fill the cup almost to the rim. Smooth the top with the back of the spoon. The cup is filled when no fish shows through the surface.

7. 7Steam for 20 minutes

   Bring the water in the steamer to a rolling boil. Set the cups in the basket and wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel so condensation does not drip onto them. Cover tightly so the steam stays in and steam over medium-high heat for 20 minutes. The tops are ready for the cream when they have puffed and turned slightly firm, with a jelly-like wobble.

8. 8Thicken the coconut cream topping

   While the cups steam, stir the rice flour into the coconut cream until smooth. Pour it into a small saucepan over low to medium heat. Stir constantly until it thickens. Take it off the heat when it coats the back of a spoon in a thin layer.

9. 9Top, garnish and steam 5 more minutes

   When the 20 minutes are up, open the steamer and spoon the thickened cream over each cup. Scatter the sliced chili and shredded makrut lime leaves on top. Cover and steam for 5 more minutes. The cups are done when the center is springy under a light press and a skewer pushed into the middle comes out with no raw fish juice.