Wassa-Wassa: Northern Benin Steamed Yam Flour Couscous

Steps

1. 1Dampen the flour a little at a time

   Put the yam chip flour in a large bowl. Sprinkle a little water over the surface and mix it in with your fingertips, lifting the flour from the bottom so the moisture spreads evenly. Keep adding water in small splashes, mixing well after each one. Stop when the flour feels evenly damp and holds into small crumbs when you press it, with no wet patches or paste.

   Water in small additions

   Water is what decides the grain. Too much at once turns the flour into a paste that will never roll into granules. Small additions keep you in control, and you can always add one more splash.

2. 2Roll the flour into small granules

   Tilt the bowl and turn it in steady circles so the damp flour rolls over itself and gathers into granules. Rub any large clumps between your palms to break them back into crumbs, then keep turning. This is the slow part of the dish, so keep at it until all the loose flour has been taken up. The granules are ready when they roll separately, one from another, small and uneven.

   Uneven is right

   Granules of different sizes and shapes are what wassa-wassa looks like. Aim for small and separate rather than round and uniform.

3. 3Steam the granules the first time

   Bring water to a boil in the pot under the steamer. Line the basket with the fine cloth and spread the granules over it loosely, without pressing them down. Cover and steam for about 25 minutes. They are done when the granules are steaming hot through and have settled into soft clumps.

4. 4Break up the clumps with a fork

   Lift the cloth by its corners and tip the hot granules into a bowl. Press the clumps apart with a fork, then lift and drop the grains so they separate. Work while they are still hot and keep your face out of the steam. Stop when the grains are loose again, with only a few soft clusters left.

5. 5Rinse and drain

   Tip the loosened granules into a fine-mesh strainer set over the sink. Run a gentle stream of water over them to wash away the bitterness, turning the grains with the fork so all of them get rinsed. Shake the strainer and let the water drain off completely. Move on when the water runs through freely and the grains sit separate in the mesh without dripping.

   Use a fine mesh and a soft stream

   The granules are small and soft at this point. A fine mesh keeps them in the strainer, and a soft stream rinses them without crushing them back into paste.

6. 6Steam the granules a second time

   Rinse the cloth, line the steamer again and bring the pot back to a boil. Spread the drained granules loosely over the cloth, cover and steam for about 15 minutes. Tip them into a bowl and fluff them with the fork. They are ready when they are steaming hot through and fall apart into moist, soft, separate grains.

7. 7Fry the fish

   While the second steaming runs, heat the peanut oil in a skillet. Pat the fish dry and lay it in the pan, moving away from you. Fry, turning once, until both sides are golden. The fish is done when the flesh is opaque and flakes at the thickest part.

8. 8Prepare the onion and chili, then serve

   Wash the onion and chili well under running water, then slice the onion thinly. Crush the chili, and season it and the onion with salt, black pepper and a little crushed garlic to taste. Heap the hot granules on a plate, lay the fish beside them and scatter the onion and chili over the top. Serve while the grains are still steaming.