Wantuo: Shanxi Steamed Buckwheat Cake with Vinegar and Chili Oil

Steps

1. 1Make the spiced water and let it cool

   Put the water, crushed star anise and ginger slices in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the salt until it dissolves, turn off the heat, and strain the water into a bowl. Let it cool until it is warm at most, no warmer than skin; hot water turns the flour into lumps on contact.

2. 2Start adding the spiced water to the flour

   Weigh 12½ oz (350 g) of the spiced water for the batter and keep the rest aside. Put the buckwheat flour in the large bowl. Pour in a small splash of spiced water and stir with chopsticks, always in the same direction. Add a little more each time the liquid disappears. Pause when the dry flour is gone and the mixture has gone from crumbs to a heavy paste.

3. 3Stir to a ribbon, then rest

   Keep adding the rest of the 12½ oz (350 g) in small amounts, stirring in the same direction for at least 10 minutes. Lift the chopsticks or a spoon: the batter should fall in one thin, unbroken thread, with no lumps, and cling to the rim of the spoon. If it is too stiff to fall that way, add reserved spiced water a little at a time. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave it for 30 minutes, until the surface has settled and the stirring streaks have smoothed out.

   The stir decides the chew

   One direction, small additions, ten minutes or more. Pouring all the water in and whisking gives a cake that is less chewy. Judge the batter by the thin falling ribbon, not by the clock.

4. 4Oil the plates and spread the batter

   Bring water to a boil in the base of the steamer. Brush the two plates with a thin coat of oil, right to the rim. Divide the batter between them and spread it with the back of a spoon to an even layer about ¼ inch (5 mm) thick. The batter should reach the edge all around with no thin patches.

5. 5Steam over high heat

   When steam is pouring out, set the plates on the rack and cover. Steam over high heat for 10 minutes. The cake is done when the surface is glossy and set, it springs back when pressed, and a skewer comes out with no raw batter on it. Cloudy, floury patches mean it needs more time; steam 2 to 3 minutes more and check again.

   Steam burns

   Lift the steamer lid away from you so the steam escapes on the far side, and use a cloth or plate lifter for the hot plates. Turn the lid so condensation does not drip onto the cake.

6. 6Chill in cold water and loosen the edge

   Set each plate in the tray of cold water, keeping the water below the rim. Leave it until the cake is cold all the way through. Run the handle of a spoon around the edge to free the cake from the plate. It is ready when the edge lifts away cleanly and the center holds when pressed.

7. 7Cut into strips

   Turn the cake out onto a cutting board. Cut it into strips about ⅜ inch (1 cm) wide with a sharp knife, using one clean stroke per cut. The cut faces should look smooth and dense, with only a few small air pockets.

   Cold before the knife

   A cake cut while warm breaks apart. Let the cold water do its work fully, and the strips keep their springy, clean edges.

8. 8Make the dressings and toss

   Crush the garlic with a little salt and stir in 2 tbsp cold water for the garlic water. In another bowl, mix the vinegar, soy sauce, MSG if using and 1 tbsp cold water. Toast the sesame in a dry pan until fragrant, then crush it coarsely in a mortar. Pile the strips in a bowl, add the cucumber, garlic water, vinegar water, chili oil and sesame in that order, pour over 2 tbsp reserved spiced water, and toss gently until everything is evenly reddish brown with no clear liquid pooling at the bottom.