Tenmusu: Shrimp Tempura Rice Balls from Tsu and Nagoya

Steps

1. 1Cut the nori into six strips

   Work with clean, completely dry hands on a dry board. Fold one full sheet of nori lengthwise into four and crease it firmly, then tear along the folds into four strips. Fold the half sheet lengthwise in two and tear it the same way. Lay the strips aside away from any steam or water. You have six narrow strips of about the same width, crisp and unbent.

2. 2Clean, season and dust the shrimp

   If any shrimp still have the dark vein along the back, pull it out. Rinse the shrimp in water and pat them dry with a cloth or paper towel, including any tails, since water on the tail is what makes oil spit. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Put them in a plastic bag with 1 tbsp of the tempura flour and shake until every shrimp is coated. They look faintly white all over, with no bare wet patches.

   The dry dusting holds the coat on

   Patting the shrimp dry and dusting them before the batter is what keeps the coat from sliding off in the oil and again when the mentsuyu goes on. Skip it and the coat is more likely to slide off.

3. 3Mix a thick batter

   Put the remaining 2 tbsp tempura flour in a bowl and add the 3 tbsp water. Stir with chopsticks until the batter thickens and turns slightly sticky; a few small lumps are fine. Lift the chopsticks and look at what falls back. The batter drops in a thick ribbon that holds its shape for a moment on the surface.

   Firmer than ordinary tempura

   Tenmusu batter is deliberately thicker than the lacy batter for tempura on a plate. It sets into a soft, solid coat that soaks up mentsuyu and stays tender inside rice instead of shattering.

4. 4Heat the oil and fry the shrimp

   Pour salad oil into a small deep pot to about 1¼ inches (3 cm) and heat it to 340°F (170°C), checking with a thermometer. Hold each shrimp (by the tail, if it has one), drag it through the batter and slide it into the oil. If your pot is small, fry in two batches so the oil stays hot. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until the coat is set and crisp and the shrimp has changed color all the way through.

   Hot oil

   Keep the pot on a back burner with the handle turned in, and never leave it alone while it heats. Lower the shrimp in gently away from you. Cook the shrimp through to the center; the general target for cooked food is a center temperature of 167°F (75°C) for at least 1 minute.

5. 5Toss with mentsuyu while hot

   Lift the shrimp out with a skimmer and let the oil drip off for a moment. Put them straight into a heatproof bowl, pour over the 2 tbsp mentsuyu and toss until every piece is coated. The hot batter takes in the sauce fast, so do this right away. Each shrimp is glossy and darkened all over, with only a little sauce left in the bottom of the bowl.

6. 6Season and divide the rice

   Put the cooked rice in a bowl and sprinkle the ¼ tsp salt over it. Mix it through gently, without mashing, so the salt spreads evenly and the grains stay whole. Divide the rice into six equal mounds. The mounds look the same size, which keeps every piece the same around its one shrimp.

7. 7Shape the rice around the shrimp

   Lay a square of plastic wrap on the counter and put one mound of rice on it. Flatten it into a disk and set one glazed shrimp in the center. Gather up the wrap and press gently so the rice closes around the shrimp into a compact oval; pressing hard crushes the grains, so use just enough pressure to hold. Repeat with the rest. When you open the wrap, the ball holds its shape and the shrimp is tucked inside.

8. 8Wrap each piece with nori

   Take one nori strip and lay its end against the side of a rice ball. Wrap it around the middle like a belt, so white rice shows above and below. Press the overlapping end flat; the moisture of the rice seals it. Repeat until all six are wrapped. The band sits snug and flat and stays put when you pick the piece up.