Ta-a Noodles: Tainan Small-Bowl Noodles in Shrimp-Shell Broth

Steps

1. 1Roast the shrimp heads and shells

   Spread the shrimp heads and shells in a single layer on the foil-lined tray, or in a wide pan, without piling them up. Roast or grill them until they smell strongly of toasted shrimp. Keep watching, because scorched shells make the broth bitter. They are ready when the shells look dry and deep red and a little orange fat has run onto the foil, with no blackened edges.

   Roast until fragrant, stop before black

   This step decides the broth. Roasted shells give off a toasty aroma and make a cleaner, less cloudy stock than raw ones. Underroasted shells taste fishy, and burnt shells taste bitter.

2. 2Simmer the broth

   Tip the roasted shells and all the drippings from the tray into the large pot, and pour in the 10 cups (about 2.4 L) of water. Bring it to a boil, then turn the heat to low and set the lid on at an angle. Simmer for 45 minutes. If the level drops a lot, add a little hot water. The heat is right when the surface barely moves and small bubbles rise only at the edge, and the broth slowly turns pale amber.

3. 3Fry the pork with the shallots and garlic

   While the broth simmers, heat the lard in the wok over medium heat. Add the minced pork and stir-fry, breaking it up, until no pink remains. Push the pork to one side, put the shallots and garlic in the cleared space, and fry them for 1 minute so they release their aroma in the hot fat. Then stir everything together and keep frying for 5 minutes, until the shallots are translucent and none of them has browned.

4. 4Braise the pork sauce

   Add the dark soy sauce and 1 cup (240 ml) of water to the wok and bring it to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce thickens. The liquid will reduce to a glossy coating on the meat. It is done when a spatula drawn across the bottom of the wok leaves a clear trail for a moment. Take it off the heat and keep it warm.

5. 5Poach the prawns

   When the broth has 1 minute left, drop in the prawns. The shells will turn red quickly. Lift the prawns out as soon as the flesh is white and opaque all the way through and no translucent patch remains around the vein. Set them on a plate while you finish the broth.

6. 6Strain and season the broth

   Pour the broth through the fine-mesh strainer into the second pot. Line the strainer with paper towel if you want it clearer. Throw away the spent shells. Add fish sauce a little at a time, tasting after each addition. Keep the broth warm over low heat. It is ready when it is a clear red-amber with no bits of shell, and it tastes just slightly under-salted.

   Stop the fish sauce early

   The pork sauce adds more salt when it melts into each bowl. Broth that tastes perfect on its own will taste too salty once the pork goes on.

7. 7Blanch the sprouts and cook the noodles

   Bring the saucepan of water to a boil. Blanch the bean sprouts briefly, until they lose their raw taste but still snap, then drain them. In the same water, cook the noodles one bowl's portion at a time, following the timing on the pack. Lift each portion out with the skimmer and shake off the water. The noodles are done when they hang loose and separate and still feel springy.

   Cook each bowl's noodles just before serving

   Noodles cooked ahead go soft in the hot broth, and with only a few bites in each bowl, the texture matters. Have the broth hot, the pork sauce warm and the toppings ready before the first portion goes into the water.

8. 8Assemble the bowls

   Put a portion of noodles in a small bowl and add some bean sprouts, spring onion and cilantro. Ladle in hot broth until the noodles are about half submerged. A small bowl overfilled with broth turns into soup. Spoon a generous amount of pork sauce on top and finish with the prawns. Serve each bowl right away, while the pork fat is still melting into the broth.