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Sekai Gohan

Pulut Panggang: Bruneian Grilled Sticky Rice in Banana Leaf

Lightly charred banana-leaf rolls, one opened to show white glutinous rice around a reddish-brown dried shrimp filling
Steps with photos

Ingredients

Ingredient Amount Role
Glutinous rice (pulut) 10½ oz (300 g) The body of the roll; sticky enough to hold its shape
Coconut milk scant ½ cup (100 ml) Richness in the rice
Water, for the rice ⅓ cup (80 ml) Steams with the coconut milk
Salt, for the rice ½ tsp Seasons the rice
White sugar 1 tsp A touch of sweetness in the rice
Pandan leaves 3, knotted Grassy, vanilla-like scent in the rice
Dried shrimp 5⅓ oz (150 g) The savory heart of the filling
Dried red chilies 1¾ oz (50 g) Heat and red color in the paste
Shallots 1¾ oz (50 g) Sweetness in the paste
Garlic 1¼ oz (35 g) Depth in the paste
Shrimp paste (belacan) 1 oz (30 g) Deep fermented savoriness
Water, for the paste scant ½ cup (100 ml) Helps the paste blend smooth
Oil, for frying 4 tbsp Fries the paste and filling
Lemongrass 1 stalk, bruised Citrus scent through the filling
Brown sugar 1 tbsp Rounds out the heat and salt
Salt, for the filling to taste Seasons the filling
Oil, for brushing as needed Inside the leaf against sticking, outside for the grill

Steps

  1. 1Soak the rice

    Rinse the glutinous rice in a few changes of water until the water runs less cloudy. Cover it with fresh water and leave it to soak for at least 4 hours, or overnight. Drain it well in a sieve before steaming.

  2. 2Prepare the shrimp and the chili paste

    Soak the dried shrimp in warm water for about 15 minutes, then drain. Pound them in a mortar or pulse them in a food processor until finely chopped. Remove the seeds from the dried chilies and soak them in warm water until soft. Blend the chilies, shallots, garlic, shrimp paste and the scant ½ cup (100 ml) water until smooth. Stop when the paste is smooth and the shrimp are finely chopped and moist.

  3. 3Fry the filling until dry

    Heat the 4 tbsp oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the chili paste and the bruised lemongrass and fry for about 5 minutes, stirring. Add the chopped shrimp, brown sugar and salt to taste, and keep stirring. The filling is done when it is dry, loose and paler in color, with no wet clumps. Remove the lemongrass, spread the filling out and let it cool completely.

    Fry it drier than you think

    Judge the filling by texture, not time. Any moisture left in it soaks into the rice and makes the rolls soft and wet inside. Keep stirring until it falls in loose, separate flakes.

  4. 4Steam the rice with coconut milk and pandan

    Bring water to a boil in the steamer. Spread the drained rice on the heatproof tray and stir in the coconut milk, ⅓ cup (80 ml) water, ½ tsp salt and 1 tsp sugar. Push the knotted pandan leaves into the rice and steam over high heat for 25–30 minutes. Remove the pandan, fluff the rice with a spoon and let it cool completely.

  5. 5Prepare the banana leaves

    Wash the banana leaves and wipe them dry. Cut them into 4 × 6-inch (10 × 15 cm) pieces. If they feel stiff, pass each piece briefly over an open flame until it softens.

    Open flame

    Hold the leaf by its edge and keep it moving over the flame. Keep sleeves and loose plastic wrap away from the burner.

  6. 6Spread the rice and add the filling

    Brush the inside of a leaf thinly with oil. Spoon about 2 tbsp of the fully cooled rice onto it. Lay plastic wrap or baking paper over it and press flat with your palm. Peel the wrap away, then spoon about 1 tbsp of the cooled filling in a line down the middle. You want an even rectangle of rice with a neat strip of red-brown filling along its center.

    Everything cold before rolling

    Both the rice and the filling must be completely cool before you assemble the rolls. Warm rice is too soft to hold a firm shape, and warm filling sweats into it.

  7. 7Roll and pin the parcels

    Starting from the edge nearest you, roll the leaf tightly so the rice closes around the filling. Fold both ends over and push a toothpick through each to hold them shut. Repeat with the remaining leaves, rice and filling. A good roll feels firm when squeezed and holds its shape with no rice escaping from the folded ends.

  8. 8Grill until charred

    Make sure no plastic wrap or paper is left on or in the parcels. Heat a nonstick pan or ridged grill pan over medium heat. Brush the outside of each roll lightly with oil and lay the rolls in the pan. Grill for about 3 minutes per side, turning with tongs, until both sides are patched with dark char. Do not steam the parcels after wrapping.

    Hot pan

    The plastic wrap and baking paper are only for pressing the rice. Remove them before grilling and never let them touch the pan or flame. Oil-brushed leaves can spit; turn the rolls with tongs, not fingers.