Shor nakhod, warm chickpeas and potatoes in a bowl topped with a vivid green cilantro sauce
Prep15 min
Cook25 min
Serves4 servings
CuisineAfghan

Shor Nakhod: Afghan Street-Stall Chickpeas with Cilantro Sauce

A recipe for shor nakhod, sold steaming from Afghan street stalls, made with chickpeas, boiled potatoes and a smooth green sauce of cilantro, garlic and vinegar. It covers the scene at the corner stall, the meaning of the name, adjusting the sauce's thickness, serving warm or chilled, and how to serve the hot sauce.

Total: 40 minLevel: Beginner

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 5

Boil the potatoes

Boiling unpeeled potatoes in a pot and checking tenderness with a bamboo skewer
Boil 15–20 minutes, until a skewer slides smoothly to the center

Wash the potatoes well with their skins on, put them in a pot and pour in water to cover. Set over medium heat, and once it boils, lower the heat slightly and boil 15–20 minutes. When a bamboo skewer slides all the way to the center without resistance, they are done. Drain in a colander.

STEP 22 / 5

Peel and cut into bite-size pieces

Peeling boiled potatoes and cutting them into 2 cm cubes
Peel, then cut into 2 cm cubes or half-moons 5 mm thick

When the potatoes have cooled enough to handle, wait about 5 minutes, then peel. Skins slip off more easily while hot, so you may also peel while holding them in a cloth. Cut into 2 cm cubes, or into half-moons 5 mm thick. Cubes are easy to scoop up with the beans, and thin slices soak up the sauce well.

STEP 33 / 5

Blend the cilantro sauce

Blending cilantro, garlic and vinegar in a blender into a smooth green sauce
Blend about 1 minute, until there are no grains and it flows thickly

Cut off the hard base of the cilantro and roughly chop it. In a blender put the cilantro, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbsp distilled vinegar, 1/2 tsp salt, and 1 green chili if making it hot, and blend about 1 minute. If the sauce is so thick the blade spins in the air, add water 1 tbsp at a time while blending, and it is done when it is free of grains and flows thickly. Taste 1 tsp to check the salt and acidity.

STEP 44 / 5

Warm the chickpeas in their liquid

Warming chickpeas with their canning liquid in a small pot until steam rises
Medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until the liquid bubbles and steam rises

Put the chickpeas with their canning liquid in a small pot and warm over medium heat for 3–4 minutes. It is enough when the liquid bubbles and steam rises from the beans. If you want a warm shor nakhod like the stall's, add the potatoes to the pot here and warm them together for about 1 minute. If you want to eat it like a cold salad, you can skip this step.

STEP 55 / 5

Toss with the sauce and serve

Tossing chickpeas and potatoes with green cilantro sauce and serving in a bowl
Mix for about 30 seconds, until the sauce coats everything evenly

Move the warmed chickpeas with their liquid to a large bowl, add the potatoes and mix lightly. Pour over the cilantro sauce and fold from the bottom with a rubber spatula for about 30 seconds, so that the sauce coats the beans and potatoes evenly all over. Serve in bowls, with a little hot sauce on top if you like, and eat warm.

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Ingredients

Ingredients

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Chickpeas and potatoes

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Chickpeas (canned) 1 can (about 400 g, with the liquid) If dried, cook about 160 g
Potatoes 225 g (2 medium) Waxy potatoes hold their shape better
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Cilantro sauce

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Cilantro 1 bunch (about 30 g) Use leaves and stems
Garlic 2 cloves —
Distilled vinegar 2 tbsp Rice vinegar also works
Salt 1/2 tsp Add more to taste
Green chili 1 Only if you want heat. Hot if used with its seeds
Water 1–3 tbsp Add if the sauce is too thick
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On a street corner stands a stall stacked with big pots. Lift the lid and chickpeas and potatoes sway in the steam. The seller quickly ladles a bowl, pours on a generous spoonful of green sauce, adds a dab of red hot sauce if you like, and hands it over. The sharp scent of garlic and vinegar, the green smell of cilantro. This is shor nakhod, the street snack sold on the corners and in the parks of Afghanistan.

Steam from a corner pot, and a sour green sauce

A seller at an Afghan street stall ladling chickpeas and potatoes from a big pot into a bowl and pouring on green sauce

"Nakhod" is chickpea in Dari (Afghan Persian). In Afghanistan, stalls line the streets and parks, and shor nakhod is a staple. The American food magazine Milk Street describes how sellers finish bowls at assembly-line speed to keep up with the queue. It is a snack of hearty beans and potatoes topped with a vivid, energizing sauce, and is sometimes compared to the Indian street food chana chaat (a sour chickpea salad).

The star of this dish is neither the beans nor the potatoes but the sauce poured over them. It is a green sauce made by grinding cilantro and garlic smooth with white vinegar, and Milk Street writes that "herbs, white vinegar, an allium and olive oil are enough." Sellers add the sauce just before eating, and as the hot beans and potatoes cool, the sourness and aroma soak into them.

Did you know

Besides the green sauce, it is the stall convention to add a little hot sauce made with red chilies. Only those who want heat put it on their own bowls and adjust, so a single pot meets everyone's preference.

It is also made at home, and Afghan-American cooks living in the United States each present their own proportions. Some use more potato and make it like a salad, while others mash everything into a dip. What they share is the three: cilantro, garlic and vinegar. With these three, every household's shor nakhod smells like that street stall.


What to know before you cook it at home

Canned chickpeas, potatoes, cilantro, garlic, distilled vinegar and green chili

The proportions in this article are based on a recipe that the American nutrition education organization Food Literacy Center received from the local Afghan caterer Florence Amin-Popalzai. There are few ingredients, and most can be gathered at a supermarket. Canned chickpeas are convenient, and using them with their liquid is a feature of this recipe. If cooking from dried chickpeas, soak overnight, cook until soft and set aside a little of the cooking liquid.

Use a generous bunch of cilantro (about 30 g). The stems carry aroma too, so cut off only the hard base and use leaves and stems together in the sauce. The vinegar in the original is white vinegar. A plain distilled vinegar is closest, and rice vinegar gives a mellower result.

Tip

If someone dislikes the aroma of cilantro, replacing half the cilantro with flat-leaf parsley keeps the green color while softening the aroma. Adding a little mint, as in Milk Street's cauliflower variation, also goes well.

For potatoes, waxy ones that keep their shape when boiled suit best. Floury potatoes lose their corners when mixed and thicken the sauce, which is also delicious in its own way.


Ingredients (serves 4)

Canned chickpeas, potatoes, cilantro, garlic, vinegar, green chili and salt for shor nakhod

Caution

This dish contains no major allergens, but chickpeas are legumes. People with an allergy to legumes should be careful. After chopping green chili, wash your hands well so you don't touch your eyes or face.


How to make shor nakhod

Including the time to boil the potatoes, it takes about 40 minutes in all. Making the cilantro sauce while the potatoes boil gets it done quickly.

Tip

Adding the sauce right before eating, as at the stall, keeps the color of the cilantro vivid. If left a while after making, the vinegar dulls the cilantro's green, but flavor soaks into the beans and potatoes in exchange. Decide when to add the sauce according to when you will eat.

Caution

Once opened, don't store canned chickpeas in the can; move what you won't use to a storage container and refrigerate. Because the dressed shor nakhod uses raw garlic and cilantro, don't leave it long at room temperature, and refrigerate promptly what you can't finish.

Warm or cold, as a snack or a side

A bowl of warm shor nakhod with a little red hot sauce on top, and flatbread
While warm, with a little red hot sauce on top if you like

At the stalls shor nakhod is served warm, but at home it is enjoyed both warm and cold. Together Women Rise, an organization that presents Afghan-American cook Humaira Ghilzai's recipes, also says it may be eaten warm or chilled. Chilling mellows the acidity, and it becomes easy to eat as a salad on a hot day.

Hot sauce is generally made by grinding red chilies with garlic and vinegar. At home, a store-bought chili sauce or crushed red pepper dissolved in a little vinegar can substitute. With flatbread it makes a light lunch, and set beside dishes of an Afghan feast it works as a refreshing palate cleanser.

Did you know

The green sauce of shor nakhod goes well not only with beans and potatoes but also served beside grilled meat or fried food. If you make extra, it can serve as a refreshing condiment at another day's table.

To cook another Afghan dish, combine it with ashak (in Japanese), the herb dumplings wrapped around leeks and scallions and boiled, Kabuli palaw (in Japanese), the celebration rice topped with raisins and carrots, and Afghan salad (in Japanese) of chopped tomato and cucumber, for a set that feels like an Afghan table.

Variations

A dish using boiled cauliflower in place of potatoes, dressed with a cilantro and mint sauce

Using boiled cauliflower in place of the potato is also popular. Divide 1/2 head cauliflower into florets and boil in salted water for 3–4 minutes, until a little bite remains at the core. Adding a handful of mint leaves to the sauce alongside the cilantro increases the freshness. Scatter thin slices of red chili on top and it looks festive too.

You can also put everything in the blender and make a dip. With this article's ingredients, drain the chickpeas, blend them with the potatoes and cilantro sauce, and make it smooth by adding olive oil a little at a time at the end. Aim for just sour enough, and with flatbread or raw vegetables for dipping it is perfect as an appetizer.

FAQ

Leftover shor nakhod put in a storage container and refrigerated

Can I make it ahead?

Dressed shor nakhod should be refrigerated in a storage container and finished by the next day. As time passes the cilantro color dulls and the aroma fades. If making ahead, I recommend refrigerating the beans and potatoes and the sauce separately and combining them right before eating.

Shouldn't I discard the canning liquid?

The Food Literacy Center recipe uses the liquid. The liquid adds a little thickness to the sauce and makes the bean flavor deeper. If the saltiness of the liquid bothers you, discard about half before using it, and if there is not enough liquid, add a little water.

Can I make it if I dislike cilantro?

You can make it with flat-leaf parsley or mint. The aroma will be completely different, but you can enjoy the same combination of garlic and vinegar in a sour sauce. Try starting by replacing only half of the cilantro.

What kind of vinegar is best?

The original is white vinegar, so distilled vinegar gives a similar taste. Some recipes use apple cider vinegar, which adds a fruity aroma and a softer acidity.

Sources