A small dish of pol sambol: grated coconut stained orange with chili, mixed with shallots and green chilies
Prep20 min
Serves4 servings
CuisineSri Lankan

Pol Sambol: Sri Lanka's Coconut Relish for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Pol sambol, the coconut relish no Sri Lankan table is without, made with grated coconut, shallots, green chilies, chili powder, Maldive fish (smoked dried fish) and lime. Covers the stone mirisgala, the trick of rubbing by hand to bring out the color, choosing coconut and dried fish outside Sri Lanka, and what to serve it with.

Total: 20 minLevel: Beginner

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 5

Prepare the coconut

Moving thawed grated coconut to a bowl and loosening it with fingers
Loosen the thawed coconut with your fingers to get rid of lumps

Thaw frozen grated coconut in the refrigerator for 6 hours or more, move it to a bowl and loosen it with your fingers until the grains separate. If lumps remain, the chili color comes out uneven. If using desiccated coconut, put 100 g in a bowl, pour 4–5 tbsp boiling water over and mix, then leave 10 minutes until it is moist and clings to your hand.

STEP 22 / 5

Crush the Maldive fish

Pounding Maldive fish in a mortar to a coarse powder
Pound 3–5 minutes until a coarse powder

Put 15 g Maldive fish in a mortar and pound with a pestle for 3–5 minutes into a coarse powder. For hard, large pieces, chop them fine with a knife first and it is easier. If using katsuobushi, grind it lightly in the mortar to a fine powder. The finer the powder, the more the umami spreads through all the coconut.

STEP 33 / 5

Chop the shallots and green chilies

Mincing shallots and green chilies fine
Shallots to 2–3 mm, green chilies to 1–2 mm

Peel 60 g shallots and mince finely to 2–3 mm. Remove the stems of the 2 green chilies, open them lengthwise, seed them if you want less heat, and mince finely to 1–2 mm. If shallots are coarse, the sharpness comes out strongly when you bite, so chop as fine as you can.

STEP 44 / 5

Rub by hand to bring out the color

Rubbing coconut and chili powder by hand in a bowl until orange
Rub 2–3 minutes until it is an even orange

To the bowl of coconut, add the shallots, green chilies, crushed Maldive fish, chili powder, black pepper and paprika. Don't add the lime and salt yet. Grab the coconut with both hands as if cupping it and rub for 2–3 minutes, pressing it out between your fingers. It is enough when the white coconut has turned an even orange and a faint oil clings to your fingertips.

STEP 55 / 5

Set the flavor with salt and lime

Squeezing lime into the pol sambol and adjusting salt and acidity while tasting
Salt first, lime last, a little at a time, tasting as you go

Add 1/2 tsp salt, mix for about 30 seconds and taste a little. If it needs more saltiness, add salt a pinch at a time. Finally add the juice of 1 lime, mix, taste again, and if the balance of sweetness, heat and acidity is off, add the remaining lime a little at a time. The guide is a moisture at which the coconut is moist, holds together and crumbles softly.

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Ingredients

Ingredients

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Sambol

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Grated coconut 200 g Thawed frozen. 100 g desiccated coconut rehydrated in hot water also works
Shallots 60 g Finely chopped. Red onion also works
Green chilies (small) 2 Finely chopped
Maldive fish (smoked dried fish) 15 g Crushed. Katsuobushi can substitute
Chili powder 2 tsp If using plain red chili flakes, start with half
Black pepper (ground) 1 tsp —
Paprika 1 tsp The mild kind
Lime juice 1–2 limes Lemon juice also works
Salt 1/2 tsp Add more to taste
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In the morning kitchen, sprinkle red chili powder over a white mound of coconut and rub it in, cupping it in your palms. Each time you press it between your fingers, oil seeps from the coconut and the white mound turns orange before your eyes. Add chopped shallots and green chilies, crushed dried fish, and finally a good squeeze of lime, and it is done. Good with rice, with curry, with freshly baked bread, this is the great supporting player on the Sri Lankan table: pol sambol.

Red Coconut at the Edge of the Plate, Morning, Noon and Night in Sri Lanka

A Sri Lankan home breakfast table with a small dish of pol sambol beside hoppers and curry

"Pol" in Sinhala means coconut. In Tamil it is called thengai sambal, and in English it is also written coconut sambol. It is a no-heat condiment combining grated coconut with shallots, dried chilies or chili powder, lime juice and salt. In a recipe she contributed to SBS Food, the cook O Tama Carey writes that this sambol is found everywhere on the island and eaten at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

In Sri Lankan homes, ingredients have long been crushed on a rectangular granite slab called a miris gala (Sinhala for "chili stone") with a stone rod. On the slab you coarsely crush the chilies and dried fish, add the coconut and rub it in, and the oil of the coconut and the color of the chilies blend. Many households now mix in a bowl by hand, but rubbing by hand to move color and aroma has not changed.

Good to know

The "Maldive fish" often added to pol sambol is called umbalakada in Sinhala, a preserved food made by smoking and drying tuna-family fish such as skipjack. It is sold as chips or thin flakes, and when crushed its umami and saltiness melt into the coconut. In smoking and drying skipjack it is very similar to Japanese katsuobushi.

Pol sambol isn't a dish that is the star by itself. It sits beside any dish, adding heat, acidity and the sweetness of coconut: a plate of white rice and curry, string hoppers (rice-flour dough pressed into fine strands and steamed), bowl-shaped thin hoppers, or the coconut flatbread pol roti (in Japanese). Paul van Reyk's recipe in SBS Food describes sambol as "a raw or cooked condiment served with Sri Lankan rice and curry meals."


What to Know Before Making It in Your Own Kitchen

Frozen grated coconut, Maldive fish, katsuobushi, shallots, green chilies and limes

The main challenge is freshly grated fresh coconut. In Sri Lanka they scrape a cracked coconut on the spot, but fresh coconut is not easy to get in many places. Indian and Sri Lankan grocery stores often sell frozen grated coconut, which can be used as is once thawed.

If you can't find frozen, you can substitute the dried coconut sold as baking material. As it is, it is dry and crumbly, so sprinkle 4–5 tbsp boiling water over 100 g desiccated coconut, mix through, and leave about 10 minutes to moisten before using. It won't release the sweet juice of fresh coconut, but the color and aroma are fully pol sambol.

Tip

If you can't get Maldive fish, you can substitute katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes). Both are smoked and dried skipjack, so the umami and aroma are very similar. Rub the shaved flakes finer between your fingers before adding. A guide amount is about the same as for Maldive fish.

Use shallots as the closest to the small red onions of Sri Lanka. If you can't get them, red onion works. For chili powder, plain red chili flakes or powder is fine, but it is hot, so start with half and adjust. To deepen the color, add mild paprika.


Ingredients (serves 4)

Grated coconut, shallots, green chilies, Maldive fish, chili powder, black pepper, paprika, lime and salt for pol sambol

The amounts follow O Tama Carey's recipe published in SBS Food (serves 4).

Caution

This dish includes fish (Maldive fish or katsuobushi). Coconut can cause allergic reactions. After handling green chilies and chili powder, wash your hands well so you don't rub your eyes. If rubbing with bare hands is hard on you, disposable gloves help.


How to Make Pol Sambol

No heat; about 20 minutes in all. If using frozen coconut, move it to the refrigerator the night before to thaw.

Tip

If you add the lime too early, the coconut gets watery, and over time the acidity fades and the flavor blurs. Set the flavor with salt and add the lime just before eating, and you can bring it to the table with the aroma still up.

Caution

Pol sambol is not cooked. It uses raw coconut and shallots, so eat it soon after making and don't leave it long at room temperature. Put any leftovers in the refrigerator right away.

On a Plate of Rice and Curry, It Sets the Palate

A Sri Lankan rice and curry plate with white rice, chicken curry, lentil curry and pol sambol
Place it beside the rice and curry and mix in a little with each bite

In Sri Lankan rice and curry, several curries and side dishes surround white rice, and pol sambol sits in one corner. As you mix rice and curry with your fingers and add a pinch of sambol now and then, the sweetness of coconut, the heat of chili and the sourness of lime join, and the fun is that the taste changes with each bite.

It goes especially well with rich curries like the chicken curry kukul mas curry and ambul thiyal (in Japanese), fish simmered with tamarind. For breakfast, have it with bowl-shaped thin hoppers or kiribath (in Japanese), rice cooked in coconut milk. At your own table, it also goes surprisingly well on toast or beside grilled fish or cold tofu.

Good to know

Sri Lanka has many sambols besides pol sambol. "Badapu pol sambol," pol sambol quickly stir-fried with onion and mustard seeds, is one, with a toasty note that raw sambol lacks.

Ways to Vary It

Pol sambol quickly stir-fried in a skillet, and pol sambol on toast

To make it without fish, leave out the Maldive fish and increase the salt a little. The umami is lighter, but the combination of coconut, chili and lime alone makes a fully delicious condiment. For a vegetarian version, use this method.

To reduce the heat, halve the chili powder and double the paprika, and the color stays vivid while only the heat drops. To make it hotter, add more green chilies or chop them with the seeds. Leftover sambol becomes a different dish when stir-fried. Heat a little oil in a skillet, stir-fry thin-sliced onion, add the sambol and stir-fry 2–3 minutes over medium heat, and it becomes a fragrant, furikake-like topping.

FAQ

Leftover pol sambol in an airtight container being stored in the refrigerator

How long does it keep?

Because it uses raw coconut and shallots, it is best finished the day you make it. If any is left, put it in an airtight container, refrigerate and eat it by the next day. With lime added, the acidity fades and it turns watery over time.

Is it OK to make it with desiccated coconut only?

Yes. Rehydrate the desiccated coconut with boiling water until moist before using. Without rehydrating, it is dry and the chili doesn't blend. The recipe site Cooking The Globe also recommends adding a little coconut milk if using dried coconut to supplement moistness and richness. Rehydrating with coconut milk rather than boiling water adds sweetness and gets a little closer to fresh coconut.

What if I have no mortar?

Maldive fish and katsuobushi can also be crushed by putting them in a plastic bag and hitting with a rolling pin. Katsuobushi gets fine enough just by rubbing it with your fingers.

Can I make it with chili powder that isn't hot?

With paprika alone the color is vivid but the heat nearly disappears. That is fine for children. Adding just a little kick from black pepper tightens the flavor.

Sources