Ayam percik: bone-in chicken thighs brushed again and again with a deep orange coconut sauce, charred in spots
Prep30 min
Cook1 hr 10 min
Serves3 servings
CuisineMalaysian

Ayam Percik: Kelantan Grilled Chicken in Coconut Sauce

Ayam percik, a specialty of Kelantan in northeastern Malaysia, is made with turmeric-marinated chicken thighs and a sweet-spicy sauce of chili and onion paste, coconut cream, lemongrass, tamarind and palm sugar. Covers the heat of the Ramadan bazaar, what the name means, the white and red styles, and an oven method that bastes again and again.

Total: 7 hr 40 minLevel: Intermediate

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 8

Score the chicken, season and leave to marinate

Scoring bone-in chicken thighs and rubbing in salt and turmeric
Cut 5 mm deep into the thick part and rub in salt and turmeric

Make 2 to 3 cuts about 5 mm deep with a knife in the thickest part of each chicken thigh. Rub 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp turmeric over the whole thing, working it into the cuts too. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 6 hours (half a day) to let the seasoning settle.

STEP 22 / 8

Rehydrate the dried red chilies

Cutting dried red chilies, removing the seeds and soaking them in boiling water until soft
Soak in boiling water for 10 to 15 minutes, until limp when pinched

Cut the dried red chilies into about 2 cm pieces with scissors and remove the seeds. Put them in a heatproof bowl, pour in enough boiling water to cover and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. They are ready when they are limp and soft if pinched with your fingers. Drain. Leaving seeds in makes it hotter, so keep a few only if you like heat.

STEP 33 / 8

Blend the paste

Blending onion, chilies, garlic and ginger into a smooth paste in a blender
Add 50 ml water and blend for 1 to 2 minutes into a thick paste with no grains

Coarsely chop the onion, garlic, ginger and fresh turmeric and put them in a blender with the soaked chilies. Add 50 ml water and blend for 1 to 2 minutes into a thick paste with no grains left. If it won't blend, add water 1 tbsp at a time. Too much water makes you take longer to cook it off in the next step.

STEP 44 / 8

Fry the paste

Frying the paste in a pot until the moisture cooks off and it takes on a reddish tint
Over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until thick and reddish

Put 3 tbsp oil in a pot over medium-low heat, add the paste and fry, stirring with a wooden spatula, for 8 to 10 minutes. It is done when the moisture has cooked off and the volume has reduced, the whole thing has taken on a slight red tint, and it is thick enough that a streak scraped along the bottom of the pot slowly closes back. The raw onion smell disappears and a sweet aroma rises. It burns easily, so keep stirring, scraping from the bottom of the pot.

STEP 55 / 8

Simmer the chicken in coconut cream

Simmering bone-in chicken thighs with lemongrass in a sauce of paste and coconut cream
Over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the surface of the chicken is white and the sauce has thickened

Add 150 ml coconut cream, the ground coriander, palm sugar and salt to the fried paste, stir, and simmer over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the crushed lemongrass, the marinated chicken and 100 ml water, raise the heat to medium, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, turning the chicken occasionally. When the surface of the chicken has turned white and the sauce has begun to thicken, take out the chicken. It's fine if it isn't completely cooked through at this stage.

STEP 66 / 8

Reduce the sauce

Reducing the sauce with tamarind and coconut cream added in a pot until it coats a spoon
Over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until it leaves a thick coating on the back of the spoon

To the pot from which you took the chicken, add 1 tbsp tamarind paste and the remaining 100 ml coconut cream, stir until blended, and reduce over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes. It is done when, scooped up with a spoon and tilted, the sauce runs down slowly and leaves a thick coating on the back of the spoon. Remove the lemongrass, taste and adjust with salt. Start preheating the oven to 210°C.

STEP 77 / 8

Bake in the oven, brushing with sauce

Brushing sauce on chicken set on a rack and baking in the oven until charred
Bake at 210°C for 8 minutes, brush with sauce, and repeat about 4 times

Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, set a rack on it and arrange the chicken skin-side up. Brush plenty of sauce on both sides and bake in the 210°C oven for 8 minutes. Take out, brush on more sauce, and bake another 8 minutes. Repeat this about 4 times, and for the last one bake until the surface has charred spots here and there. Insert a thermometer into the thickest part: it is done when the center reaches 75°C or higher and the juices run clear.

STEP 88 / 8

Plate and spoon over the remaining sauce

Baked ayam percik on a plate with rings of onion, lime and cilantro
Pour over the rewarmed sauce and serve with onion and lime

Put the baked chicken on a plate and pour over the remaining sauce, rewarmed. Serve with rings of raw onion, lime and cilantro, and for those who like heat, sambal oelek in a small dish. Hot from the oven is when you enjoy the toastiness and the thickness of the sauce the most.

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Ingredients

Ingredients

1 / 4

Marinating the chicken

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Chicken thighs (bone-in) 1 kg (about 3–4 pieces) Boneless thighs or drumettes also work
Salt 1 tsp —
Turmeric (ground) 1 tsp —
2 / 4

Chili paste

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Dried red chilies 6 Seeded and soaked in hot water
Onion 3 medium Coarsely chopped
Garlic 4 cloves —
Ginger 2.5 cm Peeled and coarsely chopped
Fresh turmeric 2.5 cm Can be replaced with 1/2 tsp ground turmeric
Water 50 ml Added to help the paste blend
3 / 4

Sauce

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Neutral oil 3 tbsp For frying the paste
Coconut cream 250 ml Divided into 150 ml and 100 ml
Ground coriander 1 tsp —
Palm sugar 2 tbsp Finely shaved. Raw cane sugar also works
Salt 1 tsp Adjust to taste
Lemongrass 2 stalks Bottoms crushed
Water 100 ml Added when simmering the chicken
Tamarind paste 1 tbsp Lime juice also works
4 / 4

To serve

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Sliced onion 1/2 Raw
Lime 1 Cut into wedges
Cilantro a little For garnish
Sambal oelek 2 tsp For those who like heat
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In the evening, the Ramadan bazaar begins to fill with people waiting to break the fast. Over long charcoal grills, chicken coated in an orange sauce lines up in rows, and each time a seller brushes on more sauce it hisses and smoke rises. The sweet aroma of coconut, lemongrass and turmeric, and the smell of scorched sugar. This is the specialty of Kelantan in northeastern Malaysia, ayam percik.

A grilled chicken from the east coast, named for the sound of sauce splashing

A seller at a Ramadan bazaar in Malaysia brushing sauce onto chicken lined up on a charcoal grill

In Malay, "ayam" is chicken and "percik" means to splash or spatter. The food blogger K.P. Kwan writes that the name may come from the way the sauce brushed on spatters onto the chicken as it grills over charcoal. The sauce combines the rich cream of coconut with a paste of fried spices. It is brushed on during grilling and spooned generously over afterward, so you get a grilled chicken with a fragrant surface and a thick, sweet sauce.

It is eaten across Malaysia but is known as a specialty of Kelantan. In Kelantan there are two broad schools: a white sauce that leaves out chili and finishes sweet and creamy, and a red sauce with chili paste added for gentle heat. This article makes the red sauce.

Did you know?

During Ramadan, ayam percik stalls are extremely busy. At a shop in Pasir Mas, Kelantan, where about 50 chickens are usually sold in a day, the number rises to 250 to 300 during the fasting month, the Malaysian English-language newspaper New Straits Times reported. This shop's sauce is made with pure coconut milk with no water added.

An article introducing a Malaysian restaurant in Sydney, Australia, describes the sauce as "a thick, half-sweet sauce made from fried spices, coconut milk and coconut flesh." You brush it onto the chicken partway through grilling, take it off the heat once it has taken on good color, and cover it with sauce again. Repeating the brushing and grilling is the foundation of the dish. It is grilled in large quantities at festivals and Ramadan bazaars, and also at village feasts.


What to know when making it in a home kitchen

Coconut cream, lemongrass, tamarind paste, palm sugar, turmeric and dried red chilies available at stores

The authentic way is over charcoal, but this article is based on the oven-roasted recipe that K.P. Kwan presents on his site Taste Of Asian Food. You first simmer the chicken in the sauce, then bake it in the oven, brushing it again and again, which has the advantage at home of cooking through to the center without scorching too much.

The pillar of the sauce is coconut cream. With a rich, high-fat one, the sauce is less likely to run off when grilled and stays firmly on the chicken. Canned coconut cream is convenient, but if you use coconut milk, scoop plenty of the thick part that has set on top of the can.

Tip

Bruise the white base of the lemongrass by crushing it with the back of a knife or a rolling pin before adding. Once the fibers break, the aroma comes out into the sauce more easily. If you can't get fresh lemongrass, frozen works the same way.

Tamarind is the fruit of a legume tree, and its sour pulp is sold as a paste. Its job is to tighten the sweetness of the sauce. Where you can't find it, some recipes substitute lime juice. Palm sugar can be replaced with raw cane or light brown sugar. Fresh turmeric (the root) is hard to find, so ground can substitute.


Ingredients (serves 3)

The ingredients for ayam percik: bone-in chicken thighs, onion, garlic, ginger, dried red chilies, coconut cream, lemongrass, tamarind and palm sugar

Caution

This dish contains no major allergens, but coconut cream is made from coconut. Turmeric easily stains clothing and plastic cutting boards, so wear an apron and wash up right after use.


How to make ayam percik

The chicken is marinated for half a day (about 6 hours), and the cooking after that takes about 1 hour 10 minutes. If you marinate it the night before, it is ready in time for the next day's dinner.

Caution

Cook the chicken thoroughly to the center. To prevent Campylobacter food poisoning, Japan's Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare urges cooking chicken to 75°C at the center for at least 1 minute. Even if the sauce has darkened the surface, the area around the bone is slow to cook, so check at the thickest part.

Tip

The sauce is high in sugar, so on the upper rack of the oven it will scorch first. Put the baking sheet on the middle rack, and if the char is getting too strong, lay foil loosely over it and keep baking. Lining under the rack with foil makes it easier to clean up the sauce that drips.

Over rice, sauce and all

Ayam percik served with blue rice nasi kerabu and herb salad on a Kelantan table
With white rice or blue nasi kerabu, sauce and all

Ayam percik is typically eaten with rice. In Kelantan it is sometimes paired with nasi kerabu (in Japanese), rice dyed blue with butterfly pea flowers and served with herbs and vegetables. At home, plain white rice is plenty. Mixing the sauce left on the plate into the rice, with the sweetness of coconut and the aroma of lemongrass, makes the rice disappear.

The raw onion and lime on the side are a palate cleanser for the rich sauce. Squeeze the lime over and the sweet sauce lightens. To add more Malaysian dishes to the table, ayam masak merah (in Japanese), chicken simmered in a sweet-hot tomato sauce, and nasi lemak, rice cooked in coconut milk, also go well.

Did you know?

The traditional way to cook ayam percik is over charcoal. Because the sauce is brushed on again and again as it grills, smoke rises each time sauce drips onto the coals, layering toasty flavor onto the chicken. A home oven can't produce that smoke aroma, but getting a good char brings you to a similar toastiness.

Variations

Ayam percik grilled with the white sauce without chili, and a plate of fish grilled with the same sauce

Leave out the chili and you get ayam percik with the white, sweet sauce, the other Kelantan school. Remove the dried red chilies from the paste and follow the same steps otherwise. It also suits eating with children. If you want less heat but still want the chili aroma, blanch the soaked chilies briefly before using, which softens the heat.

You can also make it with fish fillets instead of chicken. At ayam percik shops in Kelantan, grilled fish is sold alongside. Season mackerel or white fish fillets in the same way, skip the simmering step and grill them while brushing with sauce, and the fat of the fish goes well with the coconut sauce. Cook fish for a shorter time than chicken; it is done when the flesh flakes.

Frequently asked questions

Leftover ayam percik in a storage container with the sauce divided into a separate container

What if I don't have an oven?

You can cook it on a fish grill or in a skillet. Grill the chicken simmered in sauce over medium heat on a fish grill, brushing with sauce; or line a skillet with parchment, cover and cook over medium-low heat, then remove the lid at the end and brush with sauce to add color. In either case, be sure to check that it is cooked through to the center.

Can I make it ahead?

Cool the baked ayam percik, put it in a storage container, refrigerate, and finish it by the next day. Keeping the sauce in a separate container makes it easier to handle. To reheat, bake it in a toaster oven until hot through and spoon over warmed sauce.

What is the difference between coconut cream and coconut milk?

Both are the liquid pressed from coconut flesh, but coconut cream has more fat and is thicker and richer. K.P. Kwan recommends choosing a rich one with 20% or more fat for cooking. If you make it with coconut milk, reduce the sauce for longer.

What if I don't have tamarind?

You can substitute 1 tbsp lime juice. Tamarind's sourness is mellow with a little sweetness, but with lime you get a cleaner sourness.

Sources