Kuku sabzi cut to show its green interior, set on a table with flatbread and yogurt
Prep30 min
Cook30 min
Serves6 servings
CuisineIranian (Persian)

Kuku Sabzi: Iran's Herb-Packed Nowruz Frittata

How to make kuku sabzi, the Persian herb frittata served at Nowruz, with parsley, garlic chives, and spinach: why the herbs are chopped fine, what barberries and walnuts add, a covered low-heat bake, and the cut-then-flip trick.

Total: 1 hrLevel: Beginner

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 6

Soak the barberries

about 15 min

Dried barberries soaking in warm water in a small bowl
Soak in warm water until plump and glossy

If using barberries, put them in a small bowl and pour in enough warm water to cover. Leave about 15 minutes. When the shriveled berries plump back to round and turn glossy, they are ready. Drain in a sieve and pat lightly with a paper towel. Use the time to crush the walnuts coarsely to about 5 mm pieces.

STEP 22 / 6

Wash and finely chop the herbs

about 15 min

Finely chopping parsley, garlic chives, and spinach on a cutting board
Chop until all the herbs are about 2–3 mm

Wash the parsley, spinach, and garlic chives and dry them well. Remove the tough parsley stems and trim the spinach roots. Gather them on a cutting board and chop repeatedly with a knife to 2–3 mm. If you use a food processor, pulse a few seconds at a time and stop before it becomes a paste. The finer the chop, the better the herbs blend with the egg and hold together as one piece when cooked.

STEP 33 / 6

Mix the herbs and spices

about 3 min

Mixing spices, barberries, and walnuts into chopped herbs in a large bowl
Mix until the turmeric color is even throughout the herbs

In a large bowl, combine the herbs chopped to 2–3 mm, the soaked barberries, the walnuts crushed to 5 mm pieces, garlic powder, cinnamon, turmeric, and salt, and mix with your hands or a spoon. It is enough when the turmeric's yellow has spread evenly through the herbs and no lumps of powder show.

STEP 44 / 6

Add the beaten eggs to make the batter

about 2 min

Green batter of chopped herbs mixed with beaten egg
The egg coats the herbs into a thick, cohesive batter

In another bowl, loosely beat the eggs with a fork, just until no clumps of white remain. There is no need to whip them. Add the beaten eggs to the herb bowl and mix so that egg coats every strand of herb. You are done when the whole thing holds together as a thick, sticky batter and no egg pools at the bottom when you tilt the bowl.

STEP 55 / 6

Cover and cook over low heat

15–20 min

Herb batter spread in a skillet, cooking covered over low heat
Cook over low heat until the edges brown and the surface sheen is gone

Put 2 tbsp oil in a 25 cm skillet and heat over medium heat. When the oil flows thinly, pour in the batter. Level the surface with a spatula to an even thickness, cover right away, and turn the heat to low. Cook 15–20 minutes, until the edges turn a toasty brown and the raw sheen leaves the surface. Over high heat, the bottom scorches before the inside sets.

STEP 66 / 6

Cut and flip

about 10 min

Flipping the radially cut kuku sabzi wedges one by one in the skillet
Cutting first lets you flip it without breaking it

Use a spatula to cut the kuku sabzi in the pan radially into 6–8 wedges. Cover again and cook over low heat for 5 minutes to cook through to the cut surfaces. Then flip the wedges one at a time with the spatula, remove the lid, and cook 5 minutes. It is done when the flipped side is toasty brown and the wedge springs back when pressed.

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Ingredients

Ingredients

1 / 4

Herbs

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Flat-leaf parsley 2 bunches (about 110 g) Curly parsley works. Remove tough stems
Spinach about 55 g 1 cup, lightly packed. Use the leaves
Garlic chives about 110 g Scallions can stand in
2 / 4

Batter and seasoning

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Eggs 6 large Bring to room temperature
Turmeric 2 tsp Tints the batter yellow-green and adds aroma
Cinnamon 1/4 tsp Measure it; too much and a sweet scent takes over
Garlic powder 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp grated fresh garlic also works
Salt 1 tsp
3 / 4

Add-ins (both optional)

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Barberries (zereshk) 1/4 cup (about 60 ml) Dried. If you have none, a little chopped dried cranberry
Walnuts 1/4 cup (about 60 ml) Coarsely crushed
4 / 4

Oil for cooking

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Neutral oil 2 tbsp A bit more if you worry about sticking
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Cut it open and the inside is not egg yellow but a deep green. The scent of chopped parsley and chives rises, and here and there a red barberry glints. Kuku sabzi (کوکو سبزی) is an Iranian home dish in which a great deal of herb is bound with just a little egg and baked. It is closer to "a block of herbs held together by egg" than to an omelet, and it is known as an essential dish on the table of Nowruz, the spring new year.

A green dish on the first night of the new year

Kuku sabzi on the Nowruz table with herb rice and fried fish

Nowruz, the Iranian new year, begins around the spring equinox. As its Persian name, "new day," says, it celebrates the arrival of spring and the start of the year together. Nowruz is not only Iranian. It is also celebrated in Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, the countries of Central Asia, Turkey, and elsewhere, and UNESCO lists it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as a shared heritage of several countries, Iran among them.

At this celebratory table, kuku sabzi has a special role. Iranian-born chef Mahshid Babzartabi told SBS Food in Australia that on the first night of the new year most Iranian households eat rice mixed with finely chopped herbs, fried fish, and kuku sabzi. The same article explains that "kuku," the egg dish, stands for fertility and abundance, and "sabzi" (herbs) for renewal, making kuku sabzi a symbol of new beginnings. The green that sprouts after winter is the first thing eaten in the new year.

"Kuku" is not the name of a single dish but a family of Persian dishes in which a filling is bound with egg and baked. There are potato kuku, eggplant kuku, green bean kuku, and many more, and the one that makes herbs the star is kuku sabzi. The egg only holds things together, and the herbs are the real subject. That ratio is the big difference from a Western omelet or frittata.

Good to know

The thirteenth day after Nowruz is called Sizdah Bedar, when families head out to parks and the countryside and spend the day outdoors. The name is often translated as "getting rid of the thirteen," carrying the sense of driving off bad luck. Kuku sabzi, which is good cold and easy to carry, is also made to bring along on this picnic.

The season of coming home with armfuls of herbs

Hands sorting parsley, dill, and other herbs for kuku sabzi

As Nowruz approaches, Iranian kitchens grow busy with washing and chopping herbs: parsley, cilantro, dill, scallions, chives, and young garlic leaves. Which herbs go in, and how much of each, varies by household; Babzartabi's blend includes these six. Some households add lettuce or basil, and some scatter red barberries or crushed walnuts on top.

Barberries, called "zereshk" in Persian, are small dried red fruits. They are sharply tart more than sweet, and they give an accent to the all-green batter. Walnuts add toastiness and something to chew. Kuku sabzi stands without either, but with them each bite changes.

Cooking methods vary by household too. Some cover the pan and cook over low heat, flipping partway; others slide it into the oven to cook gently. Babzartabi names the keys as keeping the heat low and using plenty of oil so it doesn't scorch, or finishing it in the oven.

Gathering the herbs at an ordinary market

Flat-leaf parsley, garlic chives, spinach, barberries, and dried cranberries

This recipe is based on the kuku sabzi for Sizdah Bedar presented by Ajam Media Collective, a media outlet that shares Iranian-diaspora food and culture. It uses just three herbs, parsley, spinach, and garlic chives, which makes it easier to assemble than other blends.

Garlic chives are the same thing as the flat, grassy chives sold in Asian groceries as Chinese chives. They may sound unusual in an English-language recipe, but they are a regular item in the produce aisle of an Asian market. For parsley, flat-leaf (Italian) parsley has a softer aroma than the curly kind and rarely turns bitter even in large amounts. Curly parsley will work if that is what you have; remove the tough stems and use only the leaves.

If you have no garlic chives, scallions can stand in. If you can find dill or cilantro, replace part of the parsley with them to come closer to the varied blends of Iranian homes. Whichever herbs you use, don't reduce the total amount of herb; that is what keeps the green deep.

Barberries are not common in ordinary supermarkets, so look in Middle Eastern grocers or online. Without them, a small amount of finely chopped dried cranberries gives a similar red fleck and a sour note, though sweeter. Turmeric and cinnamon are available in any supermarket spice aisle.


Ingredients (a 25 cm skillet, serves 6)

Flat-leaf parsley, garlic chives, spinach, eggs, barberries, walnuts, and spices laid out

The herbs total about 275 g for 6 eggs: a bowl heaped with green that the egg barely coats. More egg gives a yellow result closer to an ordinary omelet. Keeping the herb-to-egg ratio is the surest way to keep the look and aroma that make this dish what it is.

Tip

After washing the herbs, dry them thoroughly with a salad spinner or paper towels before chopping. The batter won't turn watery, and it holds together better when baked.


Tip

Flipping the whole thing in one piece is hard, so the trick in this recipe is to cut first and flip the wedges one at a time. Even broken pieces, pushed together on the plate, hardly show.

Tip

If you smell the bottom scorching while cooking, lower the heat further and add about 1 tsp oil along the edge of the pan. If many drops of water collect inside the lid, wipe it before putting it back so the surface doesn't turn sticky.

Caution

Cook the eggs all the way through. Open a cut slightly and check that no runny raw egg remains. If you add walnuts, check beforehand whether anyone eating has a nut allergy.

Warm or cold

Kuku sabzi on a plate with flatbread, yogurt, and herbs
Serve with the green side up, with bread alongside

Turn the finished kuku sabzi out by inverting a large plate over the skillet, or lift out the wedges one at a time, and serve them with the green side up. It is good fresh and warm, and cold has its own appeal as the herb aroma settles. Flatbread is the classic partner; pita, naan, or tortillas also work.

Tear off bread, lay kuku sabzi on it, and tuck in plain yogurt, fresh herbs, and walnuts for a bite that tastes like an Iranian home table. As on a Sizdah Bedar picnic, you can also sandwich it cold in bread, and it suits a packed lunch.

Among other Iranian dishes, ghormeh sabzi (in Japanese), a stew of herbs, beans, and lamb, is another dish where plentiful herbs take the lead. Paired with tahdig (in Japanese), the crisp bottom of the rice, you get a Persian table in one sitting. For another egg dish to compare, try Turkey's menemen, eggs cooked with tomato.

FAQ

Cut kuku sabzi packed in a storage container as a lunch box

Can I add more eggs?

You can, but the result turns yellow like an ordinary omelet and the herb aroma thins. To enjoy it as kuku sabzi, I recommend keeping to about 275 g herbs for 6 eggs.

The batter sticks to the pan.

Usually there is too little oil or the heat is too high. Spread the 2 tbsp oil across the whole pan before adding the batter, and keep the heat low while it cooks. A nonstick pan makes it much easier to handle.

Can I bake it in the oven?

Some Iranian households do. Oil a baking dish, pour in the batter, and bake until the surface sets and the edges color. Baking time varies with the size and depth of the dish, so insert a skewer and check that no raw egg clings to it.

What if I want it spicy?

Iranian kuku sabzi is not a spicy dish. If you want heat, serve it with pickled green chiles or chili flakes at the table, which keeps the original flavor intact.

How long does it keep?

Once it has cooled slightly, wrap the wedges individually in plastic wrap, refrigerate, and eat them soon. It is good cold in bread or lightly rewarmed on both sides in a skillet.

I can't find barberries.

You can make it without them. To add tart bits, put in a small amount of finely chopped dried cranberries, which brings the look and the sourness closer. They are sweeter than barberries, so don't overdo it.

Sources