Crozets de Savoie baked croziflette-style in a gratin dish with stretching cheese
Prep45 min
Cook35 min
Serves4 servings
CuisineFrench / Savoyard

Crozets de Savoie: Hand-Cut Mountain Pasta, Baked Croziflette-Style

A home recipe for crozets de Savoie, the small square pasta of France's Savoie region, cut by hand and baked croziflette-style. Covers the thickness of the buckwheat dough, substitutes for Reblochon, how to cook the onion and bacon, browning, storage and reheating.

Total: 1 hr 20 minLevel: Intermediate

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 7

Bring the dough together

10 min + 20 min resting

Mixing buckwheat flour and eggs and bringing the crozets dough together
A buckwheat dough should be stiff; bring it together until the floury look has gone and it springs back when pressed

Put 120g buckwheat flour, 140g bread flour and 1/2 tsp salt in a bowl, mix, and make a well in the center. Add 2 eggs and 45ml water, break down the outer flour a little at a time with chopsticks, and then knead by hand. Stop when the floury look has gone and you have a stiff dough that keeps fine cracks on the surface but springs back when pressed. Wrap in a dry cloth and rest at room temperature, 20 to 25°C (68 to 77°F), for 20 minutes.

STEP 22 / 7

Roll thin and cut into squares

15 min

Cutting the buckwheat dough into small 1 cm squares
Cutting at about 2 mm thick and 1 cm squares keeps the center from staying heavy after boiling

Sprinkle about 10g dusting flour on the surface and divide the dough in half. With a rolling pin roll it into a thin sheet 2 mm thick and about 20 cm wide. Cut it with a knife into 1 cm bands, then turn it and cut into 1 cm squares. Spread the cut crozets so they don't overlap and coat them lightly with the remaining 10g dusting flour. No heat is used in this step. They crack if they dry too much, so once all are cut, go on to the pot step within 5 minutes.

STEP 33 / 7

Sauté the onion and bacon

8 min

Sautéing onion and bacon in a skillet
Cook the onion in the bacon fat until it is translucent and lightly colored at the edges

Cut 160g thick-cut bacon into 7 mm sticks and slice 1 onion 5 mm thick. Melt 10g unsalted butter in a skillet over medium heat and sauté the bacon for 3 minutes. When the fat seeps out and a light color forms at the edges, add the onion and sauté for 5 minutes over medium-low heat. Turn off the heat when the onion is translucent and a thin, toasty brown film forms on the bottom.

STEP 44 / 7

Boil the crozets

10–12 min

Boiling the small-cut crozets in salted water
Boil in boiling water and drain when the floury center is gone and springiness remains

Put 2.5L water and 25g salt in a pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the crozets, loosening them, and when it returns to a boil lower to medium heat and boil for 10 to 12 minutes. Stir gently with a wooden spoon for the first 2 minutes so they don't stick to the bottom. Taste one, and drain when there is no white floury center and a small springiness remains in the bite. Set aside 80ml of the cooking water.

STEP 55 / 7

Toss with the cream

3 min

Tossing the boiled crozets with onion, bacon and cream
Don't cook the cream down too far; move it to the baking dish when the trail of the spoon shows only for a moment

Return the skillet of sautéed onion and bacon to low heat, add 60ml white wine, and simmer for 1 minute. When the sharp aroma of alcohol is gone, add 180ml cream, 80ml milk and 40ml of the reserved cooking water. Add the crozets and toss for 2 minutes until the sauce reaches a consistency where the trail of the wooden spoon shows for a moment and then slowly closes. Add 1/3 tsp black pepper and 1/8 tsp nutmeg.

STEP 66 / 7

Top with cheese and bake

12–15 min

Before baking: crozets spread in a heatproof dish and topped with cheese
Spread the cheese 5 mm thick and leave gaps where the sauce shows, so the baked result doesn't become too heavy

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Spread the crozets flat in a heatproof dish, evening the surface thickness so the sauce just shows at the edge of the dish. Lay 220g of cheese cut 5 mm thick without overlapping. Bake on the middle rack at 200°C for 12 minutes, and when the surface begins to bubble, move to the upper rack and bake 2 to 3 minutes. Take it out when golden spots appear on the cheese and the sauce is bubbling in small bubbles at the rim of the dish. Stop before it burns black.

STEP 77 / 7

Rest and serve

5 min

The baked crozets de Savoie just out of the oven
When done, the rim of the dish is bubbling and the surface has a golden color

Set the dish from the oven on a dry cloth and rest it 5 minutes. Scooped right away the sauce runs, but after 5 minutes it returns into the crozets, and the shape remains even when lifted with a spoon. Serve a mound in the center of a plate, with 30g green salad and 2 cornichons beside it. Bring it to the table while the cheese still strings and the crozets at the corners are toasty brown.

0 / 0
Ingredients

Ingredients

1 / 3

Crozets dough

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Buckwheat flour 120g The axis of flavor. Don't use all buckwheat the first time
Bread flour (strong flour) 140g All-purpose also works. Easy to roll thin
Eggs 2 (about 100g) Medium size
Water 45ml Add 5ml only if the dough cracks
Salt 1/2 tsp (3g) Into the dough
Bread flour for dusting 20g For the work surface and rolling pin
2 / 3

For baking

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Onion 1 (about 200g) Sliced 5 mm
Thick-cut bacon 160g Cut into 7 mm sticks. A stand-in for lardons
Unsalted butter 10g For starting the sauté
Dry white wine 60ml Cook off the alcohol and leave only the aroma
Heavy cream 180ml About 35% milk fat. Don't use only milk
Milk 80ml Lightens the cream
Reblochon-style cheese 220g Combine raclette, taleggio, washed-rind and tomme types
Black pepper 1/3 tsp Coarsely ground
Nutmeg 1/8 tsp Don't overdo it
Water for boiling 2.5L Prepared in a deep pot
Salt for the boiling water 25g About 1% of the water
3 / 3

Sides

Ingredient Amount Role
Green salad 120g Cuts the weight of the cheese
Cornichons 8 A sour palate refresher
White wine or tea 4 glasses Keeps warmth at the table
0 / 0

Small Squares That Become a Mountain Table

Kneading flour on a cold day slows the time in the kitchen a little. Crack eggs into the pale gray of buckwheat flour and press with your palm, and a plain dough comes together, not as taut as soba, not as cheerful as pasta. Roll it thin and cut it into 1 cm squares. Each piece is modest, but boiled and baked with cream and cheese, it becomes a plate that could come out of a mountain chalet in Savoie.

Crozets de Savoie are small square pasta from the Savoie region of eastern France. There are versions with buckwheat and ones with wheat only, and locally they are boiled as a side dish or baked croziflette-style with onion, lardons, cream and Reblochon cheese. If tartiflette is made with potatoes, think of croziflette as a mountain gratin made with crozets, and the direction of the flavor is easy to grasp.

What is troublesome elsewhere is that crozets themselves are almost never in an ordinary supermarket. They can sometimes be found at import food shops, but they are not a pantry staple. So this article makes hand-cut crozets from buckwheat flour and bread flour, and bakes them croziflette-style in a home oven. If you can't get Reblochon, combine raclette, a washed-rind cheese and a lightly aged semi-hard cheese to move toward the aroma of a mountain cheese.

For a quiet stew from the same France, pot-au-feu (in Japanese), and for a table of melted cheese, Swiss raclette (in Japanese), are close relatives. Crozets sit between them. There is the handwork of kneading flour and the pleasure of baking cheese. For the little hesitation you feel at the shop, the table when it is done is quite powerful.

Sorting out the names

Crozets de Savoie is written crozets de Savoie in French. Crozets are the small square pasta, and croziflette is used as the name of the dish in which those crozets are baked with cheese, cream and bacon. In this article, hand-cut crozets are finished croziflette-style.

Ingredients: Gather the Aroma of Buckwheat and a Mountain Cheese

Buckwheat flour, bread flour, eggs, bacon, onion, cream and cheese for crozets de Savoie
Preparing the buckwheat flour, eggs, cheese, onion and bacon separately keeps you clear in the kneading and baking steps

This amount serves 4. Served as a main dish it feeds 4; as a side to a meat dish it can be shared by 6. If you can get store-bought crozets, replace the dough ingredients with 320g of crozets and adjust only the boiling time to the package.

Allergens and ingredient cautions

This recipe contains wheat, buckwheat, egg, milk and pork. If you have a buckwheat allergy, don't use the buckwheat flour; make it with 260g bread flour. The flavor leans toward wheat, but it still works as a croziflette-style bake.

Ingredients you can substitute, and ones that are hard to replace

Role Ingredient to keep Possible substitute What changes with the substitute
Buckwheat aroma 120g buckwheat flour All bread flour The plain Savoyard aroma weakens
Stretch of the dough 140g bread flour 140g all-purpose flour Slightly more prone to tearing, but manageable at home
Saltiness of the meat Thick-cut bacon Pancetta, salt pork Pancetta is very salty, so cut a little of the salt in the dough and boiling water
Mountain cheese Reblochon type Raclette, taleggio, tomme, washed-rind types Aroma, melting and saltiness change
Baking dish A heatproof dish about 20 cm Cast-iron skillet The bottom of a skillet browns easily, so allow 2 minutes less baking

What takes the most shopping in many places is the cheese, the buckwheat flour and the tools. Buckwheat flour can be found at baking-supply shops and the dried-goods aisle, but the closer to freshly milled, the more aroma it gives. The ideal cheese is Reblochon, but it may be unavailable depending on imports. In that case, combine small amounts of a good-melting raclette type, an aromatic washed-rind type and a mild semi-hard type, and make up the missing saltiness with the bacon.

Cream, milk and ordinary natural cheeses, though, are ingredients easy to buy nearby. Raclette cheese is also less likely to fail if you buy it from a specialist or import shop where you can see the amount. What is worth tracking down is a rolling pin to roll hand-cut crozets evenly, a heatproof dish of about 20 cm that is not too deep, and a cast-iron skillet when you want strong browning. It is the same with dishes that handle thin dough like achma (in Japanese): when the size of the tool fits, the work itself suddenly settles.

Tools worth deciding on when you shop

Priority What to prepare What to look at Substitute
High A rolling pin of about 30 cm A length that makes it easy to roll the dough out to 20 cm wide A clean wine bottle. But it is heavy and the thickness tends to vary
High A heatproof dish of about 20 cm Height of about 4 cm. If too shallow the sauce spills, and if too deep the browning is slow An 18 cm round dish. Allow 3 to 5 minutes more baking
Medium A cast-iron skillet One that gives strong browning on the bottom and rim Keep the heatproof dish and add 2 minutes on the upper rack

Raclette cheese is not Reblochon itself, but its stretch and aroma when heated are close, so it is easy to use as a first substitute. The rolling pin is for evening the dough to 2 mm, and the heatproof dish is for keeping the sauce and cheese at the right thickness. A skillet is not essential, but suits when you want a toasty chalet-style edge. Like chipa guasu (in Japanese), where a corn dough is baked in a heatproof dish, the depth of the dish governs the moisture of the finished result.

Method: Cut the Dough, Bake It to Browning

Crozets are small, so if you hurry the process they stick to the work surface. Allow time to rest the dough, and after cutting, loosen them lightly with dusting flour before boiling. Once you move to baking, think of it as heating through to the center first and coloring the surface last, rather than browning it all at once on the upper rack.

Crozets de Savoie served on a plate with salad and cornichons
It is a rich cheese dish, so adding the sourness of green salad and cornichons keeps it easy to finish

Where It Goes Wrong, and How to Fix It

If you think "they are small pasta, so it's easy," crozets fail unexpectedly. The problem is not the shape but the moisture, the thickness and the baking. Hand-cut crozets in particular take up more water than dried pasta, so leave room for them to absorb the sauce after boiling.

Problem Cause Fix
The dough cracks Too little water, or not rested enough Add 5ml water, bring it together, and rest 20 minutes
The dough is sticky Too much water, or too little dusting flour Add flour 2 tsp at a time, and dust the surface lightly too
They clump when boiled They were stacked after cutting, or the water was too weak Spread the 1 cm squares out and scatter them into boiling water
The center is floury Too thick, or too little boiling time Roll to 2 mm and taste one to check the center
The bake is watery Too much cooking water, or the sauce is thin Start with 40ml of cooking water and add 1 minute over low heat to thicken
The cheese separates It was baked suddenly under strong top heat Warm it first on the middle rack at 200°C, and color it on the upper rack only at the end
The taste is heavy No sour accompaniment Put 2 tsp white wine vinegar in the salad and serve cornichons
The thickness is "small pasta," not "soba"

With buckwheat flour in the dough, you are tempted to aim for the thinness of Japanese soba. But if crozets are too thin they tear when boiled and dissolve into the sauce when baked. Leaving a thickness of around 2 mm, with a small springiness when bitten, is easiest to handle at home.

How It Is Eaten Locally, and a Menu to Build Around It

Savoyard cooking has many strong dishes suited to the Alpine climate. Cheese, potatoes, bacon, flour foods. Crozets too are not a light starter but are positioned close to a main dish for a cold day. In local recipes, store-bought crozets are often used, and for a weeknight dinner the flow is to boil dried crozets and bake them all at once with sautéed ingredients and cheese.

If you serve it at home, the menu looks cleaner if you don't add too much. Since the star is cream and cheese, sour leafy greens, a soup low in salt, a dry white wine or warm tea are enough alongside. If you add a meat dish, keep it small, and serve a small clear soup like leftover broth from pot-au-feu (in Japanese), so the table doesn't get heavy.

If you can get Reblochon, leaving a thin layer of the rind gives aroma. If someone in the family isn't used to strongly scented cheese, combining 150g raclette with 70g of a natural cheese (not pizza cheese) is milder. Using only pizza shreds melts easily, but the earthy aroma of a mountain cheese dish weakens.

Viewed as a European flour dish, crozets are a little like Finland's Karelian pasties (in Japanese). Neither relies on showy spices; they build satisfaction from the grain, dairy and browning of a cold land. To keep the Savoyard character, protecting the aroma of the buckwheat and the browning at the rim of the dish is more effective than adding more cheese.

Branching points toward the authentic, in a home kitchen

Hand-cut crozets do not fully replace dried Savoyard crozets. The commercial ones locally are more uniform and keep their shape when boiled, while ones made at home tend to bring out the aroma of buckwheat. Changing how you organize the work depending on which you prioritize reduces failures.

Point of hesitation If you prioritize the authentic If you prioritize stability at home
Crozets Use 320g store-bought crozets and boil 1 minute less than the package says Hand-cut with 120g buckwheat and 140g bread flour, and keep to 2 mm thickness
Cheese Lay Reblochon thin, rind and all Combine 150g raclette with 70g of a mild natural cheese
Bacon Make the saltiness stronger with lardons or pancetta Get aroma from thick-cut bacon, and fix the boiling water salt at 1%
White wine Move toward a dry white of Savoie Cut only the heaviness with 40ml water and 1 tsp white wine vinegar
Baking dish A shallow ceramic dish to bake a wide surface A 20 cm square dish, within 3 cm thickness, moving from the middle rack at 200°C to the upper rack

For the first time, what to keep is not putting in too much buckwheat flour, not making the crozets thick, and not scorching the cheese suddenly. If you don't miss these three, even without Reblochon it stands up well enough as a mountain gratin to eat on a cold day.

Storage and Make-Ahead

Leftover crozets de Savoie moved into a shallow container, ready to be reheated
Cool leftovers in a shallow container, and reheat only what you'll eat in a small pot or the oven

Baked crozets keep for 2 days refrigerated after cooling about 20 minutes and moving to a shallow container. If you refrigerate it in the large heatproof dish, the center is slow to cool and reheating the next day is uneven. Dividing it into portions is safer and more stable in taste.

To reheat, in the oven, 10 to 12 minutes at 180°C (350°F). If the surface is dry, drizzle 1 tbsp milk around the edge, cover with aluminum foil for 8 minutes, and remove it for the last 2 minutes. To warm in a small pot, add 2 tbsp milk and stir over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes. The microwave is quick, but the oil of the cheese tends to separate, so heat at 600W for 1 minute 30 seconds, rest 30 seconds, then another 30 seconds, in that increment.

Freezing is possible, but the texture of hand-cut crozets drops a little. If freezing, don't do it before baking; wrap the baked dish in single portions and finish it within 2 weeks. Thaw in the refrigerator for half a day. Putting it straight into a hot oven burns only the surface while the center stays cold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. Can I substitute store-bought macaroni?

You can, but the impression of the dish changes a great deal. Macaroni has a hole and holds too much cream, so you don't get crozets' characteristic feeling of "biting a small plank." If you substitute, use 300g of a small short pasta and boil 1 minute less than the label. If you put priority on crozets' character, cutting by hand into 1 cm squares gets closer.

Q2. Can I make it without buckwheat flour?

Yes. Make the dough the same way with 260g bread flour, 2 eggs, 40ml water and 1/2 tsp salt. With wheat only, the aroma is mild and the taste leans toward the sauce. If you want to bring back a little Savoyard plainness, mix in just 40g whole wheat flour and use 220g bread flour.

Q3. What is the most realistic substitute if I can't find Reblochon?

Raclette cheese is easy to handle. It melts well, and its aroma moves toward a mountain cheese. Taleggio and washed-rind cheeses have strong aromas and are a matter of taste for families. If you make it with ordinary pizza cheese alone, add a little more black pepper at the end and use thick-cut bacon to make up the aroma.

Q4. Can I make the dough the day before?

Yes. Shape the dough into a flat disc, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate overnight. The next day, take it out to room temperature for 20 minutes before rolling. Rolled cold, the edges tend to crack and chip when cut into 1 cm squares. Cut crozets dry out easily, so do the cutting on the day.

Q5. What do I do if I don't use white wine?

Use 40ml water combined with 1 tsp white wine vinegar. Too much vinegar puts an edge on the cream, so stop at 1 tsp. The aroma of alcohol is gone, but the sourness that cuts the heaviness of the cheese and bacon remains.

Q6. How deep a baking dish suits this?

A square dish of about 20 cm and about 4 cm tall is easy to handle. A shallow dish tends to spill when the sauce bubbles, and a deep dish tends to brown only the cheese on top while the center stays lukewarm. If you only have a deep dish, spread the crozets no thicker than 3 cm, bake at 200°C for 15 minutes, and color for just 2 minutes on the upper rack.

Q7. What if I don't have a rolling pin?

A clean wine bottle or a round water bottle can roll it. But the edges tend to stay thick, so divide the dough into halves and roll from the center outward. Parts thicker than 3 mm stay floury in the center even after boiling, so press lightly by hand to even out the thickness before cutting.

Sources