Mirza ghasemi of charred eggplant, tomato and egg served in a bowl with flatbread and herbs
Prep40 min
Cook35 min
Serves4 servings
CuisineIranian (Gilan)

Mirza Ghasemi: Smoky Eggplant and Egg from Gilan, Northern Iran

A recipe for mirza ghasemi, a specialty of Gilan on Iran's Caspian coast. Char eggplant, tomato and garlic in their skins for smoky flavor, chop them, cook down and steam, then finish with eggs over high heat. Covers the name's origin and serving with rice and flatbread.

Total: 1 hr 15 minLevel: Beginner

Cooking flow

Cooking steps

STEP 11 / 6

Char the eggplant and tomatoes whole

15–20 min

Charring eggplant and tomatoes whole over direct flame on a grill rack until the skins blacken
Char until the eggplant skin is black and the flesh is soft when pressed

Pierce the eggplants in a few places with a skewer, put them on a grill rack with the tomatoes and char over direct flame at medium-high heat. Turn them now and then, and cook until the eggplant skin is black all over and soft through the center when pressed. For medium-long eggplants, about 15–20 minutes is the guide. The tomato skins burst and soften sooner than the eggplant, so take them out first.

STEP 22 / 6

Char the garlic in its skin

about 3 min

Charring unpeeled garlic at the edge of the rack to color it
Cook until the skin has color and the inside is slightly soft

Cut 2–3 mm off both ends of the garlic and set it in its skin at the edge of the rack, over medium direct flame, for 2–3 minutes. It is enough when the skin has color and the inside has softened slightly. It is small and scorches fast, so do not look away and keep it turning.

STEP 33 / 6

Peel and chop fine

about 10 min

Finely chopping peeled charred eggplant on a cutting board
Chop the peeled eggplant until it is a coarse paste

Take the charred vegetables off the heat and cool them until you can touch them. Peel the burnt skin from the eggplant, cut off the stem and chop finely with a knife to 5 mm or smaller. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on the chopped eggplant. Peel the tomatoes and chop them to about the same fineness, and peel the garlic and crush it with the flat of a knife. Chopping the eggplant to a coarse paste helps it blend with the egg when stir-fried.

STEP 44 / 6

Fry the garlic and eggplant

about 12 min

Frying crushed garlic and chopped eggplant in a skillet until lightly browned
Cook until the eggplant's moisture is gone and light browning appears in places

Heat 3 tbsp oil in a skillet over medium heat, add the crushed garlic and cook for about 2 minutes. When the aroma rises, add the chopped eggplant and the turmeric and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring now and then. Move on when the moisture of the eggplant has cooked off and there is light browning here and there.

STEP 55 / 6

Add the tomatoes and steam-simmer

about 20 min

Eggplant and tomato steam-simmered under a lid over low heat after the tomatoes were added
Simmer until the tomato breaks down and becomes one with the eggplant

Add the tomatoes chopped to about 5 mm cubes and cook together for 3–4 minutes, then adjust with salt. Once everything has blended, cover, lower the heat to low and steam-simmer for 15–20 minutes. It is enough when the tomato has almost lost its shape and has become one with the eggplant, thick and cohesive. If it threatens to scorch, add about 1 tbsp water.

STEP 66 / 6

Crack in the eggs and finish on high heat

about 3 min

Cracking eggs into the eggplant and tomato and stirring on high heat until they set
Once the eggs are in, raise the heat and stir until no raw egg liquid remains

Remove the lid and crack the eggs directly into the skillet. Immediately raise the heat to high and stir broadly with a spatula until the eggs set. It is done when the yellow and white of the egg are scattered finely through the eggplant, no raw egg liquid can be seen and the whole has come together softly. Sprinkle with black pepper to taste.

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Ingredients

Ingredients

1 / 3

Vegetables to char

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Eggplant 4–5 small Medium-long eggplants are just right
Tomatoes 4 large Well ripened
Garlic 5 cloves Adjust to taste. Char in the skin
2 / 3

To stir-fry and finish

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Eggs 4
Neutral vegetable oil 3 tbsp
Turmeric A pinch Optional. Adds depth of color and aroma
Salt to taste
Black pepper to taste At the end, to taste
3 / 3

To serve

Ingredient Amount Substitutes & notes
Warm cooked rice for 4 In Iran it is eaten with rice cooked the way called "kateh"
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Over charcoal, the eggplant skins crackle and shrivel black. Beside them the tomato skins burst and the unpeeled garlic turns golden. When the smoky scent of charred vegetables fills the kitchen, you peel and chop them, cook them together in a pan, and crack in eggs at the end. Mirza ghasemi (میرزا قاسمی) is a specialty of Gilan province in northern Iran, on the Caspian Sea. Anyone who knows grilled eggplant will recognize the source of that aroma at once.

On the Caspian shore: the charred eggplant of Gilan

Cooking eggplant and tomatoes whole over charcoal in a home kitchen on the Caspian coast

Gilan province is quite different from the usual image of Iran as a land of dry plateau. It is a green region between the Caspian Sea and the mountains. The cooking of the people of Gilan is called Gilaki cuisine, and mirza ghasemi is one of its representative dishes.

The ingredients are surprisingly few: eggplant, tomato, egg and garlic are the base, with only oil, salt and pepper added. Yet the flavor does not turn flat because the vegetables are charred in their skins to carry in the smoke. You could say the taste of mirza ghasemi is decided by this char aroma.

As the author at My Caldron also writes, it is now loved not only in Gilan but across Iran and beyond. Because it uses no meat, it is also welcome as a vegetarian dish.

A dish said to be devised by the governor of Rasht

Mirza ghasemi laid out with flatbread and herbs on an Iranian table

The name mirza ghasemi is said to come from a person's name. The story is that during the Qajar era in the 19th century, the governor of Rasht, the capital of Gilan, devised the dish.

An article from Australia's SBS Food introduces it as devised by the governor of Rasht, Mohammad Ghasem Khan. English Wikipedia also names the same person, but that statement carries a request for a source. The story that the name honors a governor is widely told, but it is probably best taken as tradition rather than as an origin backed by solid records.

Ali Mohammadi, chef of an Iranian restaurant in Brisbane who spoke to SBS Food, describes mirza ghasemi as a dish that "cannot be changed." With so few ingredients, the care taken in charring and cooking shows directly in the taste. According to Mohammadi, the ideal is to char medium-sized eggplants over wood charcoal, rolling them so that the fire touches all sides.

Trivia

Mohammadi says mirza ghasemi is not an everyday dish but a dish made for parties and weddings. It is often served as an appetizer at family gatherings and celebrations. It is a surprise that a dish of plain ingredients is treated as a feast for special days.

Eggplant at home suits mirza ghasemi

Piercing the skin of an eggplant with a skewer before charring

Medium-long eggplants, the kind often seen at markets, are just the right size for this dish. Four or five small eggplants serve 4 people.

The method is almost the same as for grilled eggplant. Putting a grill rack on a gas burner and charring over direct flame gives the most mirza-ghasemi-like smoky aroma. If you cannot use a direct flame, a broiler works. An oven or toaster oven cooks them through too, but the aroma of scorched skin is weaker.

Charring the tomatoes whole with the eggplant adds sweetness and a toasty flavor that raw tomatoes lack. Lightly charring garlic in its skin is a tip that the author of the cooking blog My Caldron learned from a friend; it softens the sharpness and blends the charred aroma. There is also a version that adds a little turmeric, which deepens color and aroma.


Ingredients (serves 4)

Eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, eggs, turmeric and oil laid out for mirza ghasemi

All the ingredients are available at an ordinary supermarket. Eggplants with taut, glossy skin and sharp spines on the calyx are fresh. For the tomatoes, choose well-ripened ones that are sweeter than sour, and a sweet aroma rises when you char them.

Tip

Before charring, pierce the skin of the eggplant in a few places with a skewer or fork. It keeps the skin from bursting as the moisture inside expands.


Caution

When charring vegetables over direct flame, do not place anything flammable around the grill rack. Pieces of burnt eggplant skin can fall from the rack, so check the burner's drip tray often. The charred vegetables are extremely hot inside, so let them cool thoroughly before peeling.

Tip

Put the charred eggplant in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and steam for about 5 minutes, and the skin peels off smoothly. A few small bits of burnt skin left behind become part of the toasty flavor, so there is no need to worry much.

Tip

The point once the eggs go in is to raise the heat and stir quickly. Over low heat the egg takes on moisture and turns soggy, and the toasty flavor of the eggplant and tomato blurs.

With rice, and with flatbread

The finished dish of charred eggplant and egg mirza ghasemi served with white rice and flatbread
The finished dish plated with white rice and flatbread

In Iran the traditional pairing is to eat mirza ghasemi with rice cooked in the simple way called kateh. Outside Iran, everyday white rice is enough. Eaten over rice, the toasty flavor of the charred eggplant and the sweetness of the tomato soak into the grains.

It is also good scooped up with flatbread, and fresh herbs or pickles beside it make it feel like an Iranian home table. Serving it in a small dish as an appetizer alongside other dishes is also recommended.

For another Iranian eggplant dish, eating it side by side with kashk-e bademjan, which pairs eggplant with whey, shows the difference in how charred eggplant is used. Combine it with the herb-rich egg dish kuku sabzi and tahdig, rice with a crisp bottom, and you enjoy a Persian table all at once.

Frequently asked questions

Mirza ghasemi stored in a container in the refrigerator

What if I have no direct flame?

Charring in a broiler is the easiest. Turn the eggplants now and then and cook until the skin is charred all over and the flesh soft. You can also use an oven, but the aroma of scorched skin is weaker.

Can I make it without eggs?

Yes. Finished with only charred eggplant, tomato and garlic without eggs, it becomes a paste-like appetizer. But the egg adds mildness and richness, so the basic form includes egg.

What do I do if I want it spicy?

Basic mirza ghasemi is not a spicy dish. If you want heat, serving chili flakes or pickled green chilies at the table lets you enjoy it without disturbing the original flavor.

Can I make it ahead?

Once it has cooled slightly, put it in a container, refrigerate and eat it soon. To reheat, warm it through in a skillet. Because it contains egg, do not leave it long at room temperature.

Doesn't the eggplant skin get too burnt and bitter?

Only the skin is burnt, and the flesh inside does not turn bitter once the skin is peeled. If too many black bits remain when peeling, bitterness comes through, so remove at least the large pieces.

Sources