Laksa: Malaysian Spiced Coconut Curry Noodle Soup

The noodle soup once ranked among the world's best

In 2011 a laksa, the Penang assam laksa, was ranked 7th in CNN Travel's list of the world's 50 best foods. A complex soup in which the creaminess of coconut milk, the sharp heat of chilies, the fresh scent of lemongrass and the deep savor of shrimp paste all merge, it spreads the heat of Southeast Asia through your mouth with a single sip.

Laksa is a signature noodle dish of Malaysia and Singapore, and its origins are closely tied to Peranakan (Straits Chinese) culture. It is generally thought to have originated when Chinese immigrants who came to the Malay Peninsula from the 15th century onward combined Malay ingredients and spices with Chinese noodle traditions.

Laksa now shows up at Thai and Singaporean restaurants in many countries, but people often say, "It's hard to recreate that spicy, creamy flavor at home." In fact, once you make the laksa paste, the rest comes together in a single pot.

Ingredients (serves 2)

Method

Making the laksa paste

Nine-tenths of laksa's flavor is decided by the paste. Store-bought laksa paste works, but homemade smells overwhelmingly richer.

Remove the seeds from the dried chilies and rehydrate them in warm water for 15 minutes. Slice the lower 10 cm of the lemongrass thinly. Peel off 2 or 3 of the hard outer layers and use only the tender inner part.

Put all the paste ingredients in a food processor and blend until it becomes a smooth paste. Adding 1 to 2 tbsp water makes blending easier. If you have no food processor, patiently crush everything in a mortar.

Types of laksa: completely different dishes by region

Even within "laksa," Malaysia and Singapore have an astonishing variety. Just as ramen differs entirely between Sapporo miso and Hakata tonkotsu, laksa is a different dish from region to region.

Representative variations

The most famous is Penang's assam laksa. Its clear soup, which uses no coconut milk at all and is built from the strong sourness of tamarind and fish stock, is a completely different dish from curry laksa. It was this assam laksa that ranked 7th on CNN Travel's list of delicious foods in 2011.

On the other hand, what is served as "laksa" at Singaporean restaurants abroad is mostly curry laksa (or Katong laksa). A creamy coconut-milk-based spicy soup, it is approachable for many palates and a good first laksa.

History: a fusion dish born of Peranakan culture

The origins of laksa lie in the Peranakan culture that arose between Chinese who migrated to the Malay Peninsula from the 15th century (mainly from Fujian and Chaozhou) and local Malays.

The Peranakans are a mixed community that came from Chinese immigrant men marrying Malay women. They developed their own language (Baba Malay), their own dress (the nyonya kebaya) and a cuisine (Nyonya cuisine). Laksa is a leading example of Nyonya cooking, which fuses Chinese noodle traditions with Malay spices and coconut milk.

There are several theories about the origin of the name "laksa." The leading one is that it comes from the Sanskrit "laksha" (many, ten thousand), referring to the many ingredients that go into the soup. Another theory says it comes from the Persian "lakhsha" (noodles), suggesting it may have arrived from Central Asia along the Silk Road.

From the 15th to the 17th century the Strait of Malacca was one of the world's leading trading hubs. Under Portuguese, Dutch and British rule it still functioned as a "crossroads of food," where Chinese, Indian, Arab and European food cultures met. Laksa is among the finest products of this multicultural fusion.

In present-day Malaysia, laksa also plays a role as a "unifying national food" that crosses ethnic lines. It is one of the few dishes loved by Malays, Chinese, Indians and Indigenous peoples alike, and in a multiethnic country it can be seen as a symbol of reconciliation at the table.

Technique: getting the laksa soup right

The paste lives or dies by the frying

The most important point of homemade laksa paste is frying it slowly over low heat. If you dissolve raw spice paste straight into the soup, a harsh, raw taste remains. Fry it over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes until the oil separates and red oil floats, and the aroma of the spices is at its peak.

In Malaysia this step is called "tumis," a basic technique of Malay cooking. The paste sticks to the bottom of the pot easily, so keep stirring with a wooden spatula. It turns bitter if it scorches.

Handling coconut milk

How you handle the coconut milk decides the smoothness of the soup.

Never boil it. The protein and fat of coconut milk separate at high temperature. If it boils, a creamy soup turns into an oily one. After you add the soup to the fried paste, keep the heat at medium-low.

Shake the can before opening. During long storage the fat (coconut cream) and water in the can separate. Shaking the can for 30 seconds before opening evens it out. If it still does not recombine after shaking, stir it slowly over low heat once it is in the pot.

Always use full-fat. Light and low-fat versions have little fat and do not give laksa's characteristic creaminess. Choose a full-fat one (17% fat or more).

Ingredient guide: finding laksa ingredients

Finding and substituting lemongrass

Lemongrass, the core of laksa's aroma, can be found in several forms: fresh stalks at Asian grocers, tube paste, frozen, and dried.

Fresh lemongrass smells best, but tube paste works well enough. Dried lemongrass is not suitable for pastes and is limited to simmering in soup.

If you cannot find lemongrass at all, 1 tsp grated lemon zest can substitute. It partly recreates the citrusy freshness of lemongrass, but its distinctive grassy aroma cannot be reproduced.

Choosing a store-bought laksa paste

If you do not have time to make your own paste, a store-bought laksa paste is a strong ally.

Prima Taste comes closest to the local taste. Because it comes as a set of paste and soup base, you only need coconut milk and noodles to finish.

In Malaysia, laksa is a national food eaten at every hour from breakfast to late-night snacks. Here are some especially well-known places.

Air Itam Laksa in Penang is known as a holy site of assam laksa, and the lines never end.

Madras Lane in Kuala Lumpur is an area with a concentration of curry laksa stalls, and the stalls in the alleys of Chinatown bustle with tourists and locals.

Singapore's Katong district is called the "holy land of laksa," where shops such as 328 Katong Laksa, Sungei Road Laksa and Janggut Laksa compete. The hallmark of Katong laksa is that the noodles are cut short and eaten with just a spoon, with no chopsticks.

The Malaysia and Singapore "laksa dispute"

Much like the dispute between Lebanon and Israel over hummus (in Japanese), laksa also has a dispute between Malaysia and Singapore over whose dish it is.

In reality both countries have developed their own laksa cultures, and the question of "which is the original" has no right answer. Malaysia's Penang assam laksa and Singapore's Katong laksa are so different that they can be called separate dishes, so it is natural for each country to be proud of its own.

Variations

Vegan laksa

Leave out the shrimp paste and shrimp, and substitute 1 tbsp miso and 400 ml kombu stock. Add plenty of mushrooms (shimeji, king oyster, shiitake) to make up the umami, and make fried tofu the main protein. The coconut milk can be used as is.

Chicken laksa

Use 200 g chicken thigh in place of the shrimp. After frying the paste, add the chicken and fry for 3 minutes, then pour in the soup. The umami of the chicken melts into the soup for a richer result. Using marinated chicken from shawarma gives a distinctive laksa with double the spice.

Japanese-style laksa: miso laksa

Add 1 tbsp white miso to the soup and use menma, a marinated egg and scallions as toppings. The heat of laksa and the mellowness of miso harmonize in a surprising way, and you can eat it like ramen. Adding cooked rice at the end for a risotto-like finish is also delicious.

Upgrading instant laksa

Malaysia's "MyKuali Penang White Curry Mee" is a fine instant noodle that regularly ranks high in world instant-noodle rankings. Just add 3 tbsp coconut milk, boiled shrimp, fried tofu, bean sprouts and cilantro to it, and it becomes a vastly upgraded, street-stall-level laksa.

Drinks and side dishes that go with laksa

Drinks

The best drinks for laksa's spicy soup soften the heat while bringing out the flavor.

Teh tarik is Malaysia's national drink. Black tea with condensed milk, poured from a height to make it frothy, the "pulled tea." The sweet milk tea tempers the heat of laksa. You can nearly recreate it by adding 2 tbsp condensed milk to black tea and frothing it.

Lime juice is a simple drink of freshly squeezed lime with sugar and water. The acidity sets off laksa's spices and refreshes the mouth.

Beer is a good match: a light lager such as Malaysia's Tiger or Singapore's Singha. The bitterness of cold beer and the heat of laksa are a classic combination.

Side dishes

Otak-otak is a Malaysian grilled fish cake: fish paste mixed with spices, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. It is often ordered together with laksa at stalls.

Popiah is Malaysia's version of fresh spring rolls: vegetables, egg, tofu and shrimp wrapped in a thin skin. Against the richness of laksa, refreshing popiah acts as a palate cleanser.

Roti canai is a flaky flatbread brought by Indian Malaysians. Dipping it into the laksa soup gives a texture different from the noodles.

Laksa and the world's "spiced curry noodles": a comparison

Around the world there are dishes similar to laksa that combine spiced curry and noodles. Comparing them highlights the diversity of food cultures.

Khao soi in particular is structurally similar to laksa, sharing curry soup with a coconut-milk base and noodles. But khao soi originates in Chiang Mai in northern Thailand and carries Burmese influence, so it is a dish of a different lineage.

Japan's curry udon looks like a completely different dish, but the structure of "curry spices, dashi and noodles" is shared with laksa. The idea of those who blended Western curry and Japanese udon in the Meiji era shares the spirit of "food fusion" with the way the Peranakans blended spices and noodles.

Storage and shelf life

The best storage strategy is to make the laksa paste ahead. Make a double batch of paste and freeze it in portions in an ice-cube tray. When you want laksa, put 2 or 3 cubes in a pot, add coconut milk and stock, and laksa is ready in under 15 minutes.

Nutrition and health

Much of laksa's fat is the medium-chain fatty acids (MCT) in the coconut milk. Medium-chain fatty acids are digested and absorbed faster than ordinary fats and are readily used as energy. But 620 kcal is by no means low in calories, so if you are watching your weight, a "light version" with half the coconut milk and more chicken stock is recommended.

Research has shown anti-inflammatory effects of curcumin in turmeric (Journal of Medicinal Food), and citral in lemongrass has antibacterial and antifungal action. The spices in laksa have a medicinal side as well.

Like nasi lemak (in Japanese), laksa is a national food of Malaysia. Along with pad thai (in Japanese) and nasi goreng (in Japanese), Southeast Asian noodle and rice dishes are also attracting attention as gluten-free options.

Frequently asked questions

Q. Can I use a store-bought laksa paste?

Yes. Store-bought pastes such as Prima Taste (Singapore) and AYAM (Malaysia) are of high quality and can give a taste close to homemade. But homemade has far richer lemongrass and galangal aroma.

Q. I am allergic to coconut milk. Is there a substitute?

Soy milk plus 2 tbsp tahini (sesame paste) recreates the creaminess to some extent. But the coconut flavor typical of laksa cannot be reproduced, so be prepared for a completely different dish.

Q. It is too spicy to eat. How can I adjust the heat?

Reduce the chilies (from 6 to 2 or 3) or remove all the chili seeds. Increasing the coconut milk (+100 ml) also works. Squeezing in plenty of lime when you eat lets the acidity soften the heat.

Q. What is the difference between assam laksa and curry laksa?

The biggest difference is the soup base. Curry laksa is coconut-milk-based and creamy. Assam laksa is built on tamarind (sourness) and fish stock and is clear. They are completely different dishes in look and taste. What is usually served as "laksa" abroad is mostly curry laksa.

Q. Can I use other noodles instead of rice noodles?

Udon or somen can be eaten, but the smooth texture specific to rice noodles is part of laksa's charm. There is also a variation in Malaysia that uses Chinese-style noodles, called curry mee, so yellow wheat noodles are an official option too.

Q. Can I make extra laksa paste to keep?

Yes. Laksa paste keeps for 2 weeks refrigerated and 3 months frozen. Freezing it in small portions in an ice-cube tray is the most convenient. Two or three cubes make laksa for 2 people. Freezing hardly degrades the aroma, so making a big batch on the weekend is recommended.

Q. How spicy is laksa compared with curry and rice?

The heat of curry laksa is about "hot" to "extra hot" on a Japanese curry roux scale. But because laksa contains coconut milk, there is a mellowness within the heat, and many people find it milder than an extra-hot curry in pure spiciness. The heat is easy to adjust with the number of chilies, so it is safest to start modestly and add as you taste.

Q. Can I make a laksa that children can eat?

You can make a mild version with the chilies left out completely. In that case, adding 2 tsp paprika powder keeps the color. The sweetness of coconut milk and the aroma of the spices are appealing enough without chilies, and it is welcomed as a creamy curry noodle dish for children.

Related articles

Among other Malaysian dishes, nasi lemak (in Japanese) is the classic coconut-milk rice. For a noodle comparison, against laksa, where you drink the soup, char kway teow (in Japanese), which sears flat rice noodles over high heat, is the contrast. It is interesting to read alongside the national dishes of other Southeast Asian countries: Thailand's pad thai (in Japanese) and som tam, Vietnam's banh mi (in Japanese) and Indonesia's nasi goreng (in Japanese). The Philippines' adobo (in Japanese) is also characterized by the sourness of vinegar, a contrast to laksa's heat.

As for spiced curry soups, there are also points in common with the spices used in South Asia's biryani. The overview of Middle Eastern cuisine (in Japanese) also describes the history of spices traveling along the Silk Road.

If you are interested in African cooking, Senegal's thieboudienne (in Japanese) and Ethiopia's doro wat (in Japanese) also share heavy use of spices with laksa. Eastern Europe's borscht (in Japanese) is a soup with a completely different approach, but it shares the idea that "a single bowl of soup holds a whole culture." The overview of South American cuisine (in Japanese) is also recommended as an entry point to the diversity of spices and food cultures. Build a Southeast Asian table together with gapao rice (in Japanese) and nasi goreng (in Japanese).

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