West Africa's "Other Couscous"
In Côte d'Ivoire, in West Africa, women stand at steamers with steam rising from them. What they are making is attiéké. It is a couscous-like staple made from cassava (manioc) that has been fermented and steamed.
Attiéké is an Ivorian staple. It is traditionally paired with grilled fish or grilled chicken, but its flavor is rich enough to stand on its own. The faint sourness from fermentation and the light texture are entirely different from the wheat couscous of North Africa.
This article explains how to re-create attiéké in a home kitchen. As another African staple, it also compares with ugali (Tanzania) and injera (Ethiopia), to get closer to the depth of West African food culture.
Background: The Food Culture of West Africa Woven by Cassava
Cassava and the history of attiéké
Cassava is a plant native to South America. It was brought to West Africa by the Portuguese in the 16th century, adapted to the tropical climate, and spread rapidly.
The making of attiéké goes through these stages. First, fresh cassava is peeled and grated. The grated cassava is put in a cloth sack and pressed to remove liquid, mixed with a fermentation starter (a portion of the previous batch), and fermented for 2–3 days. The fermented mass is then crumbled into granules and steamed to finish.
It is this "fermentation" step that raises attiéké from a simple cassava flour dish to a staple with a distinctive flavor. Traditional processing of cassava (grating, pressing, and fermenting) also reduces the cyanogenic compounds that raw cassava contains.
Ingredients (serves 4)
A home version
Ivorian attiéké is made from fresh cassava, but fresh cassava can be hard to get in many places, so this article gives a substitute recipe using tapioca starch (cassava starch).
Tapioca starch is a gluten-free ingredient. People with a wheat allergy can eat it with confidence.
Preparation
Preparing the tapioca starch
- Put 200 g tapioca starch in a bowl
- Add 2 tbsp lemon juice and 1/2 tsp salt
- Add water a little at a time, mixing by rubbing with your hands
- Break it up with your fingertips into granules, without letting it form big lumps
Preparing the fish
Sprinkle salt on the surface of the fish, pour lemon juice over it, and let it sit for 15 minutes. This removes any fishiness and firms the flesh. Then wipe off the moisture with paper towels and sprinkle black pepper on both sides.
In Côte d'Ivoire a little chile paste called "piment" is served alongside. Any chile paste works as a stand-in; yuzu kosho or kanzuri (a Niigata chile seasoning) from Japan would add heat and a fresh accent.
Tips for Making It Well
Cassava flour is best if you have it
You can make it with tapioca starch (cassava starch), but if you can get cassava flour, use that. Cassava flour is made by drying and grinding the whole cassava root, so it retains more fiber than tapioca starch and comes closer to the local texture.
Keep the sourness restrained
Traditional attiéké gets a faint sourness from 2–3 days of fermentation, and if you reproduce it with lemon juice, be careful not to add too much. If it is too sour it moves away from the original flavor. 1.5–2 tbsp is a good guide.
Keep to the steaming time
Over-steaming gives a mushy texture. Stick to 20 minutes, and fluff with a fork right after steaming. Aim for the airy finish of nasi lemak (Malaysia), with the grains not sticking to each other.
Crisp skin on the fish
The crispness of the fish skin matters for the texture contrast with the attiéké. Start over medium heat and never move the fish until the skin has set.
Variations
Attiéké with braised fish (poisson braisé)
The most popular way to eat it. Rather than grilling the fish over direct heat, wrap it in aluminum foil with onion, tomato, and chile and steam-bake it. Steam-baking moves the savoriness of the fish into the vegetables, which act like a sauce.
Attiéké with braised chicken (poulet braisé)
A variation using chicken thighs in place of the fish. Marinate the chicken in onion, garlic, mustard, and lemon juice and then cook it in a frying pan.
Attiéké salad
Cold attiéké mixed with tomato, cucumber, and onion and dressed with vinaigrette. A modern twist, light and suited to summer.
Japanese-style attiéké
Swap the fish for a Japanese dried fish (horse mackerel himono or Atka mackerel) and serve with grated daikon and ponzu. The faint sourness of the attiéké goes unexpectedly well with Japanese flavors. A little yuzu kosho can stand in for the piment.
Nutrition
Cassava as a source of energy
Cassava is a staple for many people in the tropics. The nutrition of attiéké is as follows.
| Nutrient | Per serving (estimated) |
|---|---|
| Energy | 340 kcal |
| Protein | 3 g |
| Fat | 5 g |
| Carbohydrates | 72 g |
| Fiber | 4 g |
Gluten-free
Attiéké is completely gluten-free. For people with a wheat allergy or celiac disease, it is a very useful alternative to couscous. Even those who cannot eat North African wheat-semolina couscous can enjoy attiéké.
Storage and Remaking
Storage
| Method | Duration | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 2 days | Keep in an airtight container to prevent drying. Sprinkle a little water over it when reheating in the microwave |
| Freezer | 1 month | Wrap single portions in plastic wrap and put them in a freezer bag |
| Grilled fish | 1 day refrigerated | The next day, flake it and remake it into a salad |
Remake recipes
For attiéké fried rice, stir-fry leftover attiéké in a frying pan with egg. A little fish sauce adds depth. For attiéké soup, add leftover attiéké to chicken soup to thicken it. For attiéké gratin, layer attiéké and boiled vegetables in a baking dish, top with white sauce and cheese, and bake.
Cassava Dishes Around the World
Dishes that turn cassava into a staple, like attiéké, spread through the countries around the equator.
| Dish | Country/region | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Farofa | Brazil | Toasted cassava flour, like a sprinkled topping. A standard side for feijoada |
| Garri | Nigeria | Dried, roasted fermented cassava. Rehydrated with water to eat |
| Fufu | Ghana | A pounded, dough-like staple made from cassava. A West African staple alongside jollof rice (Nigeria) |
| Bammy | Jamaica | A flat cassava bread. Eaten with jerk chicken |
| Tapioca | Southeast Asia | Chewy pearls made from cassava starch |
Cassava is native to South America, but it spread to Africa and Southeast Asia in the age of exploration, and each region developed its own processing techniques. Among them, attiéké stands out for its distinctive "fermented and steamed" technique.
FAQ
Q1. What is the difference between tapioca starch and cassava flour?
Tapioca starch is a product of starch only, extracted from the cassava root. Cassava flour is the whole root dried and ground, and it retains fiber and protein. For a texture closer to local attiéké, cassava flour is recommended, but tapioca starch makes a perfectly good version too.
Q2. Can I make it without fermenting?
Adding lemon juice recreates the sourness of fermentation. If you want to go further, a "pseudo-fermentation" is possible: mix tapioca starch with water, stir in 1 tbsp yogurt, and leave it overnight at room temperature. It is hard to manage, though, so beginners are better off using lemon juice.
Q3. I don't have a steamer.
A microwave can stand in. Cover a heatproof container with plastic wrap, heat at 600 W for 3 minutes, stir, and heat for 2 more minutes. The texture differs somewhat, but it comes out light and airy.
Q4. What fish go well with it?
In Côte d'Ivoire tilapia, a freshwater fish, is the standard. Any grilled fish goes well, including sea bream, horse mackerel, mackerel, and Spanish mackerel. A split dried horse mackerel also pairs excellently. It does not suit raw fish, so always serve it with cooked fish.
Q5. Can children eat it?
Attiéké itself is mild and easy for children to eat. Leave out the chile paste and take the bones out of the grilled fish, and even small children can eat it safely. Since it is gluten-free, it also suits children with a wheat allergy.
Attiéké Glossary
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Attiéké | Fermented cassava couscous. A staple of Côte d'Ivoire |
| Manioc | The French name for cassava |
| Poisson braisé | Braised fish. The standard accompaniment to attiéké |
| Piment | Chile paste. The hot condiment served with attiéké |
| Placali | A pounded cassava paste. Another staple of Côte d'Ivoire |
| Alloco | Fried plantain. Sometimes eaten together with attiéké |
Summary
Attiéké is a fermented cassava staple of Côte d'Ivoire in West Africa. Its fluffy texture, faint sourness, and mild flavor that goes with any dish have something in common with Japanese rice.
With tapioca starch you can easily re-create it at home, so try it with grilled fish.
As another African staple, compare it with the cornmeal ugali (Tanzania) and the teff-based injera (Ethiopia). If you are interested in cassava dishes, also look into farofa, the side dish of feijoada (Brazil). Comparing it with the couscous served with tagine (Morocco) (in Japanese) to feel the difference between North and West African "couscous cultures" is an interesting experience.
