Too Distinctive to Be Called "Turkish Pizza"
Gaziantep in southeastern Turkey is a city of gastronomy recognized by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy. Known for kebabs, baklava and above all lahmacun, it is often called the heart of Turkish food.
Lahmacun is a dish in which a meat paste of lamb mixed with spices and herbs is spread over wheat dough rolled as thin as paper and baked quickly at high heat. Because it looks like Italian pizza it is sometimes introduced as "Turkish pizza," but that is the biggest misunderstanding of lahmacun. There is no cheese on it, and the baked flatbread is not cut with a knife but rolled up and eaten by hand. The thinness of the dough, the strong spicing of the meat paste and the rolled way of eating make it a completely different eating experience from Italian pizza.
Gaziantep is at the center, and cities across the southeast such as Şanlıurfa, Adana and Mersin each take pride in their own lahmacun, a food culture of regional rivalry.
The name comes from the Arabic "laḥm bi-ʿajīn" (meat with dough), pronounced "lahmacun" in Turkish. It is called "lahmajo" in Armenian and "lahm bi'ajin" in Arabic, and is eaten widely from the Middle East to the Caucasus. Lahmacun makers in Gaziantep are called "lahmacuncu."
Searching in English for "lahmacun" or "Turkish flatbread" turns up a great many recipes, with lively discussion from rolling technique to spice ratios. Alongside dolma (in Japanese) and köfte, it is a representative Turkish dish. This article explains how to reproduce the traditional method of southeastern Turkey faithfully in a home oven.
Ingredients (8 pieces, serves 4)
Artisans in Gaziantep use a fine flour close to "00." Blending bread flour and cake flour at 3 to 1 comes closest in texture. With 100% bread flour it is hard to roll, and with 100% cake flour it loses its chew. Using potato starch for dusting keeps the dough from sticking to the surface and makes it easier to roll.
Ground beef (15–20% fat) makes a perfectly good one. If you want more of a lamb feel, add another 1/2 tsp cumin to the beef. Cumin can imitate the characteristic lamb flavor to some degree.
Lahmacun of southeastern Turkey calls for a dried chile from Şanlıurfa called isot biber (Urfa biber). It is characterized by a fruity aroma and gentle heat, and Korean coarse chili flakes (gochugaru) are the closest substitute. Japanese ichimi chili powder is too hot, so avoid it. You can also look for "Urfa biber" or "Aleppo pepper" at online shops or Middle Eastern groceries.

Cooking Tips
The rule of lahmacun's deliciousness is thinness. The dough thin enough to see through, and the meat paste spread thin with the back of a spoon. If you wonder "is it really fine this thin?", that is just right.
Lahmacun baking must be "short time at high heat." Always preheat the oven to its maximum temperature before you start. With too little preheating, the dough turns soggy and the meat paste dries, the worst result. With a pizza stone you need to preheat 30 minutes or more.
Tomatoes vary a lot in water content, so the stiffness of the meat paste varies. The ideal is "spreadable with the back of a spoon but not running." If it is too watery, drain in a sieve for 5 minutes. If it is too stiff, add tomato juice 1 tablespoon at a time. English-language recipes describe it as "thick but spreadable, like peanut butter."
For a Turkish person, not squeezing lemon over lahmacun is unthinkable. The acidity of lemon offsets the fattiness of the lamb and brings out the aroma of the spices. It is as indispensable as drizzling olive oil on Lebanese hummus (in Japanese).
Variations
Vegetarian lahmacun
Use 100 g chopped walnuts plus 150 g lentils (boiled and mashed) instead of the meat. Mix the onion, tomato and spices in the same proportions, following the same steps as for the meat paste. The richness of the walnuts gives satisfaction close to lamb.
Cheese lahmacun
Scatter grated kashar cheese (or mozzarella) over the baked lahmacun and return it to the oven for 30 seconds to melt the cheese. Gaziantep artisans might call it unorthodox, but the saltiness of the cheese sets off the spices of the meat.
Spicy lahmacun
Double the Aleppo pepper from 1 teaspoon to 2 and add 2 fresh green chiles (finely chopped) to the meat paste. This is the style of Adana (in southeastern Turkey), and like the Adana kebab in Turkish kebab, the heat of the chile gives it punch.
Fish flake lahmacun
A seafood version uses flakes of mackerel or sardine in place of the meat. Flake canned mackerel and toss it with the same spices and vegetables as the meat paste, then bake. Finishing with scattered dill makes a dish with a seaside aroma.
Grill lahmacun
A method of baking on a barbecue grill instead of the oven. After rolling the dough and spreading the meat paste, set it on the direct-heat side of the grill, with its aluminum foil, cover and bake 2–3 minutes. The charcoal smoke adds a wild flavor an ordinary oven cannot give. In rural Turkey baking in a wood-fired oven is traditional, and the grill is the cooking method closest to that atmosphere.

Background of the Dish
Gaziantep: Home of Lahmacun
Gaziantep (formerly Aintab) in southeastern Turkey became in 2015 the first Turkish city to be designated a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The fertile land of Anatolia, its history as a Silk Road trading route and the geography where Arab, Kurdish, Turkish and Armenian food cultures intersect made the city a rare gastronomic capital.
The food journalist Robyn Eckhardt, in her book Istanbul & Beyond (2017), introduces Turkish cuisine including the food culture of the southeast.
The Origin Dispute: Turkey, Armenia or the Arabs?
There is a long dispute over the origin of lahmacun. Because the etymology is Arabic "laḥm bi-ʿajīn" (meat with dough), some researchers argue for an Arab origin. On the other hand, Armenian culinary historians stress its history as "lahmajo" within the cuisine of the Armenian diaspora.
The truth is probably that it was a dish developed at the same time by several civilizations within the two trading and cultural spheres of the Silk Road and the Ottoman Empire.
Just as Lebanese mujaddara (in Japanese) is a dish shared across the Arab world, lahmacun is not the monopoly of one country but a dish that belongs to several peoples as a heritage of Middle Eastern food culture.
The Spice Road: Aleppo Pepper and Isot Biber
One of the spices that defines the flavor of lahmacun is isot biber (Urfa biber / isot pepper) from Şanlıurfa in southeastern Turkey. After harvest this chile goes through a distinctive drying process in which it is, rather than only sun-dried, wrapped in cloth at night to "sweat." This softens the heat and gives a fruity flavor reminiscent of raisins and chocolate. The Korean coarse chili flakes (gochugaru) have the closest flavor profile as a substitute.
Another important spice is sumac. It is a powder made from the dried red berries of a plant of the sumac family, with a lemony acidity. It is used throughout Middle Eastern cooking, and sprinkled over lahmacun at the end it cuts the fattiness of the meat and leaves a fresh aftertaste.
Turkey's Street Food and Lahmacun
Turkey's street food is among the most diverse in the world. Alongside kebab, simit (sesame bread), balık ekmek (mackerel sandwich) and dondurma (stretchy ice cream), lahmacun plays a central role in Turkish street food culture.
In the back streets of Istanbul, the bazaars of Ankara and the shopping streets of Adana, lahmacun shops are everywhere, and you can see the artisan rolling the dough through the window. From ordering to baked takes under 5 minutes, and being easy to roll and eat while walking is why it has settled in as an everyday food. Unlike Jordanian mansaf (in Japanese), served at special celebrations, lahmacun is a food that stays close to everyday life. Every region of the Middle East has its own "national dish," like Armenian harissa or Bahraini machboos, but few have become as everyday as lahmacun.
"Lahmacun Is Not Pizza": A Question of Identity
Calling lahmacun "Turkish pizza" has long been a point of friction: it has no cheese, the dough is thinner, it is rolled to eat, and the spices differ. It is not only a question of the name of a dish but of the identity of Turkish food culture, an objection to the ease of pressing Middle Eastern dishes into existing Western categories. As touched on in the introduction to Middle Eastern cuisine overall (in Japanese), Middle Eastern food culture has its own context and history, and trying to understand it within a Western framework loses its essence.
Lahmacun and Society
In Turkish homes, lahmacun is "a dish you make together." The family naturally divides the roles: one rolls the dough, one spreads the meat paste, one moves trays in and out of the oven.
Especially during Ramadan, lahmacun often appears on the table at iftar (the meal that breaks the fast after sunset), and the sight of a family around a long table eating a great many lahmacun as they are baked one after another is a familiar scene in Turkey.

Nutrition (per piece of 8)
Lahmacun is about 320 kcal per piece. Because it has no cheese, it has much less fat. It is a balanced dish with 18 g protein from the lamb and vitamin C from the bell pepper and tomato.
| Nutrient | Amount |
|---|---|
| Calories | 320 kcal |
| Protein | 18 g |
| Fat | 12 g |
| Carbohydrate | 38 g |
| Fiber | 3 g |
| Sodium | 580 mg |
Eating it rolled up with plenty of raw vegetables such as lettuce and tomato increases the fiber and vitamins further.
Dishes to Cook Alongside
- How to make dolma (in Japanese) - Continue with a table from the same country.
- How to make kebab - Continue with a table from the same country.
- How to make kebab sauce - Continue with a table from the same country.
Frequently Asked Questions
Answers to questions about making lahmacun, from handling the dough to storage, covering the points beginners wonder about.
Q1. I can't roll the dough thin. Any tips?
Dough that springs back (shrinks) is a sign of tense gluten. Rest it 5 minutes and try again. Using potato starch for dusting reduces sticking to the surface and makes rolling easier. Roll the pin radially from the center outward. If you have a pasta machine, passing it through at setting 6 (about 2 mm) gives an even thinness.
Q2. My oven only goes up to 250°C. Is that OK?
At 250°C it still bakes well. Extend the baking to 5–7 minutes and bake until the edge of the dough is lightly colored. Preheating a pizza stone or an upside-down baking sheet raises the temperature of the underside and gives a crisp finish. There is also a trick of using a two-sided fish grill, which bakes at nearly 300°C from above and below.
Q3. Can lahmacun be frozen?
With the dough rolled and the meat paste spread, you can wrap each one in plastic wrap and freeze. It keeps about 1 month. When you eat it, put it frozen into a preheated oven and bake 7–8 minutes at 250°C. I do not recommend freezing already baked lahmacun, since the dough softens when thawed.
Q4. I don't like the smell of lamb. What can I do?
If you dislike the characteristic flavor of lamb, make it with 100% ground beef. Since the cumin and paprika spices are the stars, beef gives a thoroughly lahmacun-like taste. This article recommends the beef substitution.
Q5. What drink goes with lahmacun?
In Turkey ayran (a salted yogurt drink) is the standard of standards. Mix 200 ml plain yogurt, 100 ml water and a pinch of salt. The mildness of ayran neatly offsets the spicy meat paste of lahmacun. For alcohol, Turkey's Efes beer and rakı (an anise-flavored spirit mixed with water) are the traditional pairings. Something lemony, such as a lemon spritz, also goes superbly: the synergy of acidity and spice may make you eat too much.
Related Middle Eastern Dishes
If lahmacun has made you curious, try the varied dishes of Turkey and the wider Middle East too. A rich world of flavor woven from spices, herbs and yogurt awaits.
Turkish dishes
- Dolma (in Japanese): Turkey's rice wrapped in grape leaves. A delicacy that contrasts with lahmacun, though both are Turkish.
- Köfte: Turkish meatballs. The basic form of Turkish meat cooking, using the same spices as lahmacun.
- Kebab: Turkish kebabs of various kinds. Adana kebab comes from the same southeast as lahmacun.
Lebanese and Israeli dishes
- Hummus (in Japanese): Lebanese chickpea paste. Also pairs excellently as an accompaniment to lahmacun.
- Shakshuka: Israeli eggs poached in tomato sauce. The tomato-and-spice combination common to the Middle East.
- Tabbouleh: Lebanese parsley salad. Ideal as an accompaniment to lahmacun.
Other Middle Eastern dishes
- Mansaf (in Japanese): Jordan's lamb in yogurt. The summit of Middle Eastern lamb dishes.
- Tahchin (in Japanese): Iranian saffron rice cake. The art of Middle Eastern rice dishes.
Sources

- Eckhardt, R. (2017). Istanbul & Beyond: Exploring the Diverse Cuisines of Turkey. Rux Martin Books. https://www.hmhbooks.com/istanbul-beyond/ (a comprehensive introduction to Turkish cooking including the food culture of the southeast)
- Sercarz, L.L. (2016). The Spice Companion: A Guide to the World of Spices. Clarkson Potter. https://clarksonpotter.com/spice-companion/ (a reference on the spices of the world including isot biber)
- "Gaziantep: UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy." (2015). UNESCO. https://en.unesco.org/creative-cities/gaziantep (official material on Gaziantep's designation as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy)











